Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a little issue, when i start my car when hot it runs really rough for about 15 to 20 to seconds then comes good. It will do if i leave the car parked in the sun all day at work and is technically a cold start the engine is cold but is a really hot day. It is even worse if i drive it on a really hot day park it and come back to the car and go to start it again it cranks for alot longer ("flooded it mate") and then starts sounds like a subaru and sometimes will even stall. I have to keep the reves up for little bit then it will run and drive as per normal. I dont have any other issues with missfires or anything at any other time eg: cruising, fullthrottle all sweet just starting when HOT.

Car is r33 gtst series 2

Mods - FMIC, Exhaust, Splitfires, Iridium plugs gapped at .8mm, Power FC, Standard BOV, Apexi POD. and a R34 turbo (12psi). Everything is standard. I use MOTUL turbolite 10-40w engine oil.

I figure it cant be the cold start valve cause it does it with engine temp at 30 or 90 and AAC colged up would cause issues all the time.

Any help would be great Thanks all

Mine used to play up and return bad economy until I shoved in another set of injectors. Economy pretty much went from 450+km's per tank to 350ish over night. Changed o2 no difference.

With another set of injectors it only stumbled ever so slightly which pushing in a little more fuel on cold start fixed.

I've now upped the fuel pressure slightly and it never stumbles old cold start even if I lean it right out; just takes a few more cranks to start.

There's a few threads on this issue. Check out the search button.

Start during winter i only had it do it to me a couple of times and wasnt really that bad but as soon as the lovely queensland heat kicked i began having issues, i dont have an adjustable pressure reg and i really dont want to bump up fuel pressure as for there are thousands of skylines out there running similar setups to me that dont have an issue and would like to try and nut out the problem not just cover it up. :ph34r:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here.   Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.
    • Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
    • Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).
    • Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
    • Liking the new charger, battery all good (I think).   Also like how you can put it in power supply mode too. Will troubleshoot with that sometime soon.
×
×
  • Create New...