Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys and Gals!

I want to get black side skirts for my r33 but I'm too undecided due to the front bar being harlequin as well? so thought I'd get some opinions. The car is harlequin with a black roof, boot and bonnet.

At the moment the roof and bonnet have flake through the black and the boot doesn't.

I'm getting the bonnet sprayed straight black without the flake...now if I get black side skirts...would it

a) look stupid, b) look ok or c) look ok if I got flake sprayed through the black as well....

Sorry if this sounds confusing and pointless but I just can't decide so some opinions would be good.

Here are some pics of the sky at the moment, skirtless:

Picture055.jpg

Picture001.jpg

Picture046.jpg

Edited by MeLSki
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/246281-will-side-skirts-look-odd-on-my-33/
Share on other sites

hi Melski,

i think without the side skirts it looks fairly odd because the front bar is quite deep. I personally think it would look okay with black sideskirts. If you think it loooks bad maybe paint the bottom half of your front bar and sorta have a two tone theme? If you get the chance..see if you can find someone that can photoshop some side skirts on and see how they would look. Are you thinking of doing something to the rear bar? or leaving it as is?

The car does look a little odd with just the front bar, so I would recommend getting the skirts. I dont know about making them black though, I''m personally not a fan on multicoloured cars :)

I'm guessing the skirts would be pretty expensive to get painted the same colour as the base of the car?

What sideskirts? I agree it needs them to suit the proportion of the lower front. If you need help where to get good kits let me know.

Should get pods too

I would spray the skirts the same as the front. Wont look right in my opinion if its black.

:)

atm looks like a girl without pants....... mmmmmm girl without pants ;)

mmm pants

Pods are like a rear bar except they only cover like the left and right side not the middle bit of the back.

That didn't really make sense.

Like this:

gtrpods.jpg

mmm pants

Pods are like a rear bar except they only cover like the left and right side not the middle bit of the back.

That didn't really make sense.

Like this:

gtrpods.jpg

get these skirts - i think they match the front bar - i think its the same as mine

r33fane1.jpg

post-5880-1227583781_thumb.jpg

sidenote: how hard are pods to fit? can do it yourself?

Edited by fane

spray or leave black either way you would need an aftermarket sideskirt to finish the look of the car. atm it does look really odd. pod is a cheap alternative but if you can spare a few more $ then get aftermarket rear bumper...then your car will sit evenly and nicely.

sooo skirts and pods it is...leave black for now till I can afford the respray....sound liek a plan?

And yeah Fane that front bar is the same as mine, can u please pm me details of where u got ur side skrits (if u got them?)

i have pods if you want melski, i had them for my r33 but never put them on and since i dont have a r33 anymore..i have no use for them

looks exactly the same as these:

gtrpods.jpg

Edited by ZXY
sooo skirts and pods it is...leave black for now till I can afford the respray....sound liek a plan?

And yeah Fane that front bar is the same as mine, can u please pm me details of where u got ur side skrits (if u got them?)

Do it when you can afford to do it right the first time. No point payn to have it sprayed black the first time then spraying it that chameleon colour later

If your doing pods jun is the only way gtr pods look ghey.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...