Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so yesterday i wanted to test it out as i jst got it.... so i gave it some up this hill.... went good but then i had to slow down to chuck a turn it as i did that my steering locked up and my engine turned off, my accessories interia so on was still on... and now jst getting maccas in the car park cruzing along... and went to turn into the drive threw and cut out again..... any ideas anyone??? plz help!

THNKZ :sick:

ok, a few questions:

1. do u have a blow off valve?

2. did you hit the brakes quite hard before the corner

3. did u put the clutch in?

If the answer to all three is yes, then its ur BOV. THis is normal for untuned cars running after market bov. So no need to worry.

IF u drop the rev to quick it will cut out.

You can either tune the car.. or just dont put the clutch in if ur droppng ur speed quickly or if u do, play with the acclerator to keep it from stalling..

=)

mmm yeh does ey brendan... so bov u recon ey..

yep, its a very common problem. My car does it as well... but ive learnt to expect so it doesnt jump on me and i lose brakes and power steering mid corner!! Which it did when i first test drove the car... I explained the problem to a friend @ xspeed who inspected the car for me and he explained it to me.. But i recently got a SAFC 2 so that will sought that problem out when i get around to installing it.

I kind of have the same problem excet my oil presure meter on the right Drops down really Low then my engine cuts out,Happend during idle once in 2nd up a hill and again in 2nd coming out fo a corner :sick: and theres plenty of oil..

Ive got this to.. ive noticed if i put my foot down before a corner and put on brakes straight after and go in for a turn it will cut out.. so i just make sure i dont do that or if i do i play with the accelerator like someone else noted..

how much it cost ya?

safc 2 cost me 100 bucks. Bought it off a friend

installation: free, do it my self

and tuning? maybe 150 bucks im guessing? Hours worth max on the dyno.

meantime just be aware of it and u will be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...