Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey hey hey, if anyones car is dodgy, ITS MINE... seriously, have you seen this pig!!... Andrew you should take me up on my offer for the bodykit, seeing as your selling and all,, besides, bodykit wont make much diff with sale anyways... either way ill see you tomorrow, we can chat!!...lol

Love you...lol

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sorry just a quick note on the petrol. I know its OT but the mods can just split the topic if one notices?

The taxing of commodities like petrol in an economy like ours with the limited resources available and the environmental impacts that burning it has should always be quite high. This discourages consumption and forces people to look towards alternate means which a) preserves the life of the rare resource and b) reduces the environmental effects of the petrol. Granted with a commodity so widely used and depended upon steep jumps in price are never a good thing as it causes push inflation and reduces discretionary spending which slows growth. Considering the current financial crisis and the slowdown in growth worldwide the reduction in the price of petrol is really quite well timed to stimulate a bit of action in the economy.

On a final note, electric cars. The amount of emmissions and greenhouse gases released in the production of the batteries for those things means that you have to drive the car for something like 5 years ( cant remember the exact figure) before the savings in petrol actually make up for the huge production emissions. However noone seems to want to hear that.

On a final note, electric cars. The amount of emmissions and greenhouse gases released in the production of the batteries for those things means that you have to drive the car for something like 5 years ( cant remember the exact figure) before the savings in petrol actually make up for the huge production emissions. However noone seems to want to hear that.

There are no environment effects in producing petrol then?

5 years is not very long at all.

And once electric powered vehicles actually get into mass production like petrol powered vehicles, the cost will reduce, we will get better at making them, and that 5 year 'gap' may all but dissipate.

But after that 5 years electric cars would have little to no impact on the environment, Depending on how the energy is captured to charge the batteries of course.

Any way back on topic.

I just did the mod this morning and took my car for a quick spin, 1st an 2nd gears are completely different now.

Didn't really want to flog it tho because it's so hot today, Should give a fair increase in power when the ambient air is colder.

But ur selling it...?

who cares if i'm selling it...

you're selling your car too right?

not because you don't like it, but because you want something better?

well that's why i'm selling, it's a nice car, i can just get something better seeing as though i've had the car for around a year now

I'm selling mine because its non-turbo and it'll cost to much to convert.

Andrew, your car is one of the best looking GTTs in Perth. Work on the engine and interior to make it the full package. You know I think your an idiot for wanting to sell it, but I'll just remind you in case you've forgotten!

It's pretty easy. Essentially, theres a sensor which has a white and a black wire going into it. Cut the black wire and ground it to a nut (closest and easiest one is the Strut bar bolt).

Once thats done, start the car and give it a boot!

how do you go about this, the wire will not reach from what i can tell. do you just join a piece to it for the extra length? how easy is it to get that bolt off and back on on the strut bar?

Edited by Rucker34

From what I was told, the R34 wires wont reach, but there is no reason why you cant just cut and solder a longer piece of wire to it.

That strut bar bolt (if its the same as the R33 one, which I cant see why it isnt) is just a normal 14mm bolt. Get a ratchet, 14mm socket, give it a wack with your hand to get it started, take it off, ground the wire, tighten the bolt up again, and its all done!!

From what I was told, the R34 wires wont reach, but there is no reason why you cant just cut and solder a longer piece of wire to it.

That strut bar bolt (if its the same as the R33 one, which I cant see why it isnt) is just a normal 14mm bolt. Get a ratchet, 14mm socket, give it a wack with your hand to get it started, take it off, ground the wire, tighten the bolt up again, and its all done!!

thanks m8. i may do it this weekend. it could be a pain though because the car is lowered i dont think i can get to the underside of the strut bolt without jacking the car up.

Why do you need to get underneith? Just take the nut off up top.

i thought i would have to take the bolt out. i wanted to earth the wire underneath the strut bar because i think it will look shit and stand out if the wire is attached to the top of it?

Just attach another piece of wite to it. Make sure its a good connection with either solder as Rhys said, or with a crimp kit. Crimp the two ends together. I did this to Andrew's (Hoony) car not long ago and it worked well. To give you an idea how easy it is, we did it in about 10-15 minutes in the parking lot of Morley Fast Eddy's at 2:30am on a Thursday night haha

Thanks guys. yeah will be easy as then. i was not going to do this at first, was not sure if i would really feel any difference but if you guys say it works well then why not, seeing as its free and easy.

RICCA - yea, I didn't connect it to the strut brace, I connected it to a bolt holding another bracket to the body. Sounds like the one you're describing. Remember, the whole shell is earth, so you can connect it where ever suits you, as long as its against the body of the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...