Jump to content
SAU Community

32gtr 4wd Light, Isthere A Workshop/specialist Arround Dandenong Or A Bit Further


Recommended Posts

Well can't really fix 8 and 9 without putting the abs back in. I normally turn the car off and restart it if it's just 8 and 9, I'd try and ask a specialist about your other error code. I have an intermittent problem as well myself but its a different code, in my case it was a g sensor related issue.

Im sure if you study the wiring diagrams and probe an abs module you could put a resistor in wherever it needs to go and wire it accordingly

when i have a warning light go off in my truck for something

i just get a nice big bit of blue tac and cover the light, after that no worries :D

but im hearing ya is annoying this time of year to get into a workshop

there are workshops everywere, try the little guys they always want work , just need trust

iv been to a couple lil guys and they know nothing about skylines or dont wana touch them,if i watch some one fix the problem once then i could probably do it myself but i wouldnt wana touch something were i dont know nothing about,if some one has some spare time we can try together if not ill just keep ringing arround

Below is a list of ATTESSA Fault Codes, ATTESSA Pro (V-Spec) may differ.

1 Right front wheel speed sensor or circuit

2 Left front wheel speed sensor or circuit

3 Right rear wheel speed sensor or circuit

4 Left front wheel speed sensor or circuit

5 ABS right front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit

6 ABS left front wheel actuator solenoid or circuit

7 ABS rear wheel actuator solenoid or circuit

8 ABS actuator motor, motor relay or circuit

9 ABS actuator relay or circuit

10 ETS control unit power supply or circuit

11 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit

12 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1 or circuit

13 Fore-and-aft G sensor 1, fore-and-aft G senstor 2

14 G sensor power supply 1 or circuit

15 G sensor power supply 2 or circuit

16 Lateral G sensor or circuit

17 Air bleed connector or circuit

18 ETS pressure switch or circuit

19 ETS motor, motor relay or circuit

20 ETS solenoid or circuit

21 Throttle sensor or circuit

22 ETS oil level switch or circuit

23 -

24 or ON ETS control unit, ground or circuit

The ABS has been taken out of your car, ignore it. CeJay's removed his ABS as well and also has those codes, but his ATTESSA is working fine. You also had error code no. 2 come up, it has something to do with your 'left front wheel speed sensor or circuit'.

Do some research on this sensor. It's probably stuffed or it's been unplugged by accident.

You don't seem to be having any luck getting this car into a workshop, better off doing the job yourself (Edit: maybe not for some.. do it at your own risk :D ).

Edited by adam-__-

speed sensors are all plugged in i took both front ones out and cleaned them but no luck,got a booking at jap warehouse next wednesday but wouldnt mind something earlier as i had plans for this weekend

so guys looks like ill have to wait till wednesday to take it to japwarehouse unless some1 can find me sum1 to take it to earlier any more places left or we used them all up

Feenin Performance

Dandenong

0403596801

AVR performance

18 beecher st preston

9480 2599

(across the road from impound yard)

Zip Racing

Bayswater

0419290138

Revzone

8-10 molan st

ringwood

98700540

Promax Auto

Alan + Manhon

1 Mary Street

Blackburn

03 9894 0366

Primal Garage

1/380 Somerville Rd

West Footscray

0419156142

Nissco

2 Halbert Rd

Bayswater VIC 3153

(03) 9761 4743

Driftline

21 Thornycroft St, Campbellfield 3061

0425855540

Sabbadin auto

59 roberts ave

Mulgrave

9558 4422

RAJAB RACING DEVELOPMENTS

www.rajabracing.com.au

3/55-57 Randor St, Campbellfield

Vic, 3061

(03) 9357 7587

Poath Road Automotive

151 Poath Road, Murrumbeena 3163

9569 0022

Street Forced Performance

Hampton Park

0425868576

Nismo Performance Centre

Unit 4 / 58 Mahoneys Road

Thomastown

9460 6468

Raceradiators

9793 2798

Racebrakes

9326 6088

Status Tuning

63 Rodeo Drive

Dandenong

97923333 0419590220

RacePace

Holloway Drive

Bayswater Victoria

03 97629421

Dr Drift

Unit 5 / 9 Alick Rd

Brooklyn, Victoria

Australia, 3012

0425 818 755.

Chasers

4/440 dynon rd,

West Melbourne,

9687 7118

RE Customs

16 Yiannis Court

Springvale VIC

03 9548 3414

Sabbadin auto

59 roberts ave

Mulgrave

9558 4422

Protek

273 Dundas St

Preston 3072

9484 3117

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...