Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been looking on the net for some sort of legislation for modifications etc. Does anyone know where it could be found ?

So have I. I'm looking at bringing a car up from NSW which has a fmic, pod filter, etc... but its been done with no expense spared and very professionally by the current owner, and I'm unsure as to whether to buy it or not in case I have rip all the stuff out simply to be able to register it. The Qld Transport link in one of the posts above doesn't quite answer it, also theres all this talk about only being allowed one intake mod etc... so its all very confusing. Is there someone somewhere in Qld in some official capacity who actually knows the answers to all this ?

NEVER heard of that before. I don't beleive it to be true either.

As mentioned, pods have to be firmly secured by a bracket (zip ties arnt safe apparently). You do not need a heat shield for pods in QLD however its better for you to have one as youll get lower intake temps.

BOVs have to be plumbed back. You are allowed dual ports as long as one side is plumb back and it is set to that on the street. Despite common beleif they arn't illegal due to emissions but rather making unessecary noise.

Any questions you can call the Queensland Transport modifications line on 3253 4851

Well I've just re read this whole thread, and found the number listed above. I called them and they were spot on, seemed to be able to answer every question. So if anyone else is in my situation, simply call this number and they'll 'give you the good oil' so to speak ..........

  • 1 year later...

Hate to dig up an old post but it seems the law is a prick of a thing when it comes to emmisions. My rb20 has 230kw and was just wondering if the remapped ecu/ bigger injectors/ boost controller are legal to have. I know the pod I have with the front mount attracts some attention so I will chase down a standard box.

Hate to dig up an old post but it seems the law is a prick of a thing when it comes to emmisions. My rb20 has 230kw and was just wondering if the remapped ecu/ bigger injectors/ boost controller are legal to have. I know the pod I have with the front mount attracts some attention so I will chase down a standard box.

They could technically pull you up for some of these things but without the ability to actually test your car (compared with other states) it is not too bad here in Queensland.

ECU, Injectors and boost controller are a few things that you can probably get away with as they can be hidden completely.

thanks alot :). I currently have a greddy pro b spec 2 controller mounted inside my ash tray and the original ecu is simply remapped so looks stock. I'm using a stock fuel rail so its hard to make out any difference in injectors (if you don't know what to look for). so i think i should be pretty safe ATM i will just have to take my chance when i do a better build on the car and only drive it once a week and hope i don't attract any attention. if i go driving with a friend who has a HQ one toner with a 545 big block im pretty sure he will take most the heat anyway :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...