Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

cheers mate but no thanks =)

with 4 months of looking literaly every day i finaly found my self the mintest most clean NA r34 ive seen as of yet, and ironicly, it was also the cheapest =)

heres she is boys :blush: sorry bout pic quality, ive reseized them down from a 10megapixel camera lmao.. nd for those wondering, no those burnout marks are not mine, took pics at a known skid pan around my area nd came across some cops who where on patrol there who couldnt help but admire my car also lol :)

r341hm1.jpg

w604.png

r342tm0.jpg

w604.png

r343so8.jpg

w604.png

looks great.

pretty much the same as mine except i have the JDM L.E.D Tail Lights (Sexxxxy) and no wing. Not sure if my silver is slightly different also? might just be the camera. How much did it cost ya?

EDIT: No Xenon Headlights? That Sucks.

Edited by Silver_GT

dont really want to talk about prices e.t.c. all i can say is not more than 15,000 :thumbsup: .. has pretty low k's on her too, has full vehicle examination i.e. all panels checked and also engine and all taht stuff.. car is very very neat and i can definately say the hours i spend every day searching for one for a solid 4 months are finaly worth it lol

BTW silvergt, the colour is like its in the pic, its abit more gun metalishh =/

Edited by PSI-FED
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...