Jump to content
SAU Community

How about this turbo for the RB25?

USRB25S13

By USRB25S13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

USRB25S13 Enthusiast

USRB25S13

Posted
Posted

Hi. This i smy first post. I am from the States and I own a 240sx (180sx to you guys) I am waiting for my RB25DET clip to come in and I have done some research on the stock turbo performance. I found this highflow T3 turbo and was wondering how it matches up to the RB25DET engine. As you can see the compressor flow is 35lbs/min. That should be good for 350 hp. I don't know if any turbo rebuilders here in the states will know what to do with the stock RB25 turbo. Here is a link to the site that sells this turbo. he specs are listed there. I know it will problably take some fab but that's ok I ahve always made my own DP's on past turbo cars

http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gart3sup.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24869-how-about-this-turbo-for-the-rb25/
Share on other sites
Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

I think that will be a little small for the RB25, a bit smaller than the stock turbo.

what sort of power are you after? Is this going to be a drift car, circuit, drag, street? or all of the above:D

Have a look at the GT28 series, they would give you a good midrange and top end. GT30s go well too.

USRB25S13 Enthusiast

USRB25S13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have done a bit of searching here and I found alot of posts about turbo upgrades but most of the disscusion is on turbo's that I am don't know much about (Jappeness turbos) I just wanted to know how this turbo would stack up against the stock one. The car would be daily driven and I am looking to make around 300-350 HP (260-300 WHP) once all mods are in place. I figured replacing the turbo first would keep the car more reliable since the stock one car fail if over speed or detination happens.

I guess I could go with a T3/T4 with an internal wastegate. They are kinda rare since most people go with larger external wastegates. I would guess a T04E compressor with aleast a 50 trim and a .68 exhaust with a stage III wheel would do the trick.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

Stock turbo should be able to support that sort of power reliably, no probs. Problems start when people start winding in too much boost, esp with the stock cooler, as it has a pretty huge pressure drop at higher rpm.

With a decent FMIC you shouldnt have any probs running 0.85bar boost(12.5psi), day in day out and easily be making around 270-280rwhp. Alot of guys on here run 1bar without dramas, but some do have dramas.

the stock turbo is not too bad for what it is.

If you are only chasing 260-300rwhp, why upgrade, really not necessary. If you want a bit more, have a look at BOOSTDs post on upgrade comp wheel and using a VG30 housing - I am sure they wouldnt be hard to find in US.

Just some ideas anyways. But seriously with the hp you are chasing you wont need to upgrade the turbo.

USRB25S13 Enthusiast

USRB25S13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think Jap turbos are some of the best quality turbos out there. They make really good power for there size. They just don't hve the same bang for buck that the old school American turbos have. You can pickup a T3/T4 turbo for around 550 new. Most HKS, Apex turbos start at over 1K and go up from there.

As for the VG30 turbo there was never any VG30DET powered cars in the US. Unless you are talking about the VG30ET from the older 300zx's. The only other turbo VG we got was the twin turbo 300zx. But from what you have said I think my money would be better invested in a good FMIC.

EnricoPalazzo Grand Master

EnricoPalazzo

Posted
Posted

Well fo comparison, my Stock turboed R33 is making 183rwks which equates to 245whp. Now in USA ur Dyno Jet dynos read about 10-15% higher then ours so really for u that is 255-260whp.

When i install a FMIC and some other add ons (ECU and cam gear), i should hit +200rwks, ie 270whp here or around 300rwhp where u r.

So what im gettin at is that the Stock turbo will be fine for what u are wanting.

Cya

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by USRB25S13

..... The only other turbo VG we got was the twin turbo 300zx.

thats the one:)

Have a look at the thread BOOSTD posted about his $350 260rwkw turbo.

Originally posted by USRB25S13

But from what you have said I think my money would be better invested in a good FMIC.

Most definately, i had trouble giving my stock intercooler away ended up at the local rubbish dump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Steal01
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By Steal01 · Posted

      It’s going to be a beast!
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...