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Location: Adelaide , SA - Contact: - PM or SMS 0404998591

Got the following items that are no longer needed:

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Grex (Greddy) Oil Cooler Kit to suit RB series motors (should fit CA's too). Kit comes complete with GREX Sandwich plate with in-built thermostat and oil temp sensor (cheaper kits don't have one this helps get instant oil pressure when starting your motor and allows the oil to warm up as per factory to protect your engine). The kit comes with all needed to install including new speedflow braided lines bought from OG Speed Shop and a brand new Greddy Filter. Previously used on a R33 Skyline with the actual GREX cooler core mounting on the drivers side at the front. Price - $550

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Z32 AFM Plug complete with clip, loom and installation instuctions for SR, CA and RB powered cars. - Price - $20

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R33 Viscous LSD Diff Complete in 4.1 Ratio NON-ABS Housing with 5 bolt half shafts in excellent condition with all ready to bolt in - Price - $300 Now $200

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Stock R33 Flywheel perfect for those looking for one to do a manual conversion - Price $75 Now $50

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R33 Series 2 Centre Console - Price $40

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R33 Series 2 Drivers Window Switch with surround - Price - $60

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Pirelli P-Zero Rosso 245/40/18 Tyre with 95% tread no longer have 18" wheels so no need for this tyres which retails for over $400. Price - $75ono Now $50 FIRM Due to a lack of interest on here till recently the tyre was placed on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=160304290416

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S14/R33 Castor Rods complete with all nuts and bolts required for fitting. Rods and bushes are in good condition with no sign of leaking from the bushes. Price - NOW SOLD

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Innovate Motorsports LM-1 Wideband Kit complete with optional RPM Converter Kit to allow mapping of RPM/AFR. Cost over $700 new and used twice still complete in box. Price - NOW SOLD

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Monza M-Spec Fuel Pressure Regulator complete in box with gauge, hoses & fittings bought from Repco for $150. Price - $75 NOW SOLD

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Location - Adelaide , SA

Contact - PM or SMS 0404998591

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
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