Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

there are rumours going around the trap that the r35gtr requires a full rebuild @ 100,000km & apparently this is a 15k major service - could this be true?

i have also heard from a workshop here in sydney that they are having a lot of gearbox issues with striping gears (1 particular in the US has changed his gearbox 5 times) - & apparently considering a recall but this would run nissan into the ground

here is a clip of a 10.5 pass where this black gtr strips 1st gear OUCH (refer to 2nd clip):

http://www.gtrblog.com/index.php/2009/01/0...f-the--1?blog=4

regards,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251111-are-these-rumours-true/
Share on other sites

I imagine it makes no difference to nissan if people are braking gearboxes after getting a chunk more power out of it then drag racing them. If you up the power things will break, thats a given and should be accepted. That GTR that ran a 10.6 is making worlds more power then stock so a gear box breakage was expected.

Over 100 launches using the Nissan GT-R's now infamous launch control, with approximately 30 of those resulting in a sub-10 second ET, took it's toll.

somehow i dont think thats what nissan allowed for when designing the box...

As for the engine thing - the answer is no body knows. It has something to do with the plamsa bores but I can't remember exactly what.

But then it's 100,000km's. I wish my R34 GTR engine would last that long before it needs a +$15K re-build!

Pretty sure if you read through this forum there will plenty of information regarding the gearbox issues, the car that strips 1st in the video has been widely publicised as having in excess of 600hp, 700nm and running consistent 10 sec 1/4s. It may be worth your time to have a read through some topics with things in the title like "R35 gearbox" to get some info in this.

As for the engine thing - the answer is no body knows. It has something to do with the plamsa bores but I can't remember exactly what.

But then it's 100,000km's. I wish my R34 GTR engine would last that long before it needs a +$15K re-build!

yes it was the plasma bores that i also heard

i agree with ur comment about the 15k rebuild...i guess its like an rb26 running 295awkw and hoping to get 100000km

(this is what the r35 achieved on crd's dyno)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...