Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A shop that is located a distance from where I am has a R33 radiator (both manual and auto R33 if that makes a difference) for cheap.

Will there be any difficulties in installing it on my A31? Can the hoses I already have be re-used or would I have to get new ones?

I appreciate any help/advice, pics will also come in handy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251573-r33-radiator-on-a31/
Share on other sites

The R33 radiator is taller so will not fit straight in. R32 gtst is a straight fit and thicker than the ceffy N/A one.

Thought there used to be a thread on it with someone said they had fitted an R33 one somehow, but couldn't find it.

Hope this helps.

The R33 radiator is taller so will not fit straight in. R32 gtst is a straight fit and thicker than the ceffy N/A one.

Thought there used to be a thread on it with someone said they had fitted an R33 one somehow, but couldn't find it.

Hope this helps.

Thanks alot. I'll just get a 32GTST one.

The R33 radiator is taller so will not fit straight in. R32 gtst is a straight fit and thicker than the ceffy N/A one.

Thought there used to be a thread on it with someone said they had fitted an R33 one somehow, but couldn't find it.

Hope this helps.

no no my friend, i have a 33 rad in my ceffy, no mods needed that im aware of, its 34 ones that are too tall to fit

I can only tell you my experence, when I put my RB25 in I bought most of an R33 front cut including radiator. I tried to fit the radiator and it was too tall so I sold it and bought an R32 one. Think they said you can pack the supports down to make it fit.

It wouldn't take too much to try it.

I'm running R33 radiator in my ceff, I did chop the bottom rubbers in half to help fit, and the top brackets don't line up, but you can make the top brakets out of anything.

I was more concerned about extra cooling capacity than factory looking fit.

If it trully isn't that hard to fit, I'll make an attempt. I believe my current one (which came off a R32) is plugged and causing hoses to burst. Can't afford for the head-gasket in this one to go as I'm currently saving for a 25DET. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...