Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all im a little bit confused at the moment between electronic boost controllers. i currently have a s1 r33 with a Greddy profec 2 spec B. i am running a pfc ecu without the commander.(is it wasnt there when i bought the car), I am looking between the apexi AVC-R and the Apexi Power Fc boost control kit.. Which is the better of the two and do u need the commander for the PFC boost controller..? any help would be greatly apriecated as i have no idea.. thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251666-ebcs/
Share on other sites

i'm running a blitz DSBC spec s which is basically the same....

i'd stick with what you have and spend the money on a go fast mod :down:

fyi my ebc gets me 20 psi by a titch over 3500 and holds till redline...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251666-ebcs/#findComment-4356236
Share on other sites

Is your boost controller working.. ie holding the set boost without deviating too much? If the answer is yes, then why change.. If the answer is no, have you followed the instructions to see if it is just a set up issue? The only other reason I can see to change (if the ebc is actually working) is that you have excess money, I take donations.. :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251666-ebcs/#findComment-4356303
Share on other sites

I use something a hell of a lot older than what you have.. blitz twin-sbc. not fancy screen, not even a digital readout, just a couple of knobs and a couple of buttons. Holds boost dead flat so who cares what it looks like, or what other fancy features it has. Hidden away in the glovebox as well, better out of sight than ripped off I reckon. Once you have it set you won't want to play with it again. Just read that manual hamish posted up and it looks dead easy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251666-ebcs/#findComment-4356557
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was just driving into work and while on my drive, I went to accelerate and noticed the car would sputter/hesitate and I’d hear a few pops from the exhaust before it started going faster. Then I also noticed that when I push my clutch in, the car would die. This all started happening today. Any ideas?
    • That is a lovely Volvo, just saying. Yes I should have got an 260RS when they were cheap. I do regret now.
    • ^ lots of good points made above. The thing is, "aggressive" or "flush" fitment is relative depending on how much you have been influenced by social media. My starting point is always "look at the Nismo RWD specs". That is where you should start, then start measuring as GTSBoy as sort of mentioned, because every car will be slightly different. My 8.5"+35/9.5+38 will not be "flush" enough for you because you want more "pumped" look, which is why you measure. Tyre sizes and brand/models also make a difference. Some tyres are more chunky/square, some are more rounded. That means you could get away with more aggressive offsets without rubbing. But then it also depends on your ride height. Also depends on how much your car copped damage before being shipped from Japan. So it goes back to measuring your car yourself and determining what can work. Those Nismo specs are used bacause it's a safe spec for standard car (suspension. body) with chunky tyres. But then I put 265/35 wide tyres on R34 GT-R wheels, and currently run 285/30 tyres on 18x10 wheels.
    • Sounds pretty awesome. I recommend creating a new build thread and posting all your goodness in there.
×
×
  • Create New...