Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm looking at upgrading my injectors and just wondering if PWR are a decent brand. To be honest, I haven't heard much of them, but apparently they use injectors made by Denso? Doesn't Denso supply a lot of OEM injectors? That should mean it's ok, yeah?

The reason I'm asking is that I have been waiting 2 months for my Nismo 600cc injectors to ship from Japan without success. The workshop has 700cc PWR injectors (I believe TL700) in the garage that are ready to go, and asked me do I want to go ahead with these (they are actually cheaper). I don't think they need to modify the fuel rails or anything - I believe it's a direct fit.

Thanks.

Power Enterprise are very high quality. Equal to or possibly better than SARD, HKS etc but no evidence to prove that of course. I spoke with Power Enterprises a few days ago at AutoSalon and saw some of their other products including the injectors. They have the injectors made to their spec by Denso so manufacturing quality is second to none, as far as development goes, they have an extremely good name in injectors.

PWR ENT also do Kevlar Timing belts which are 700 times stringer than factory belts. Just in case you were wondering.

How much are these PWR 700cc items worth out of curiousity?

I have also heard good things about PWR stuff. Good quality with reasonable pricing.

Ask R31Nismoid, he's a forum trader so he'll be able to get you a good price on them

Power Enterprise are very high quality. Equal to or possibly better than SARD, HKS etc but no evidence to prove that of course. I spoke with Power Enterprises a few days ago at AutoSalon and saw some of their other products including the injectors. They have the injectors made to their spec by Denso so manufacturing quality is second to none, as far as development goes, they have an extremely good name in injectors.

PWR ENT also do Kevlar Timing belts which are 700 times stringer than factory belts. Just in case you were wondering.

rubbish...they are all made by Denso...no brand is better than the other. P.E. were blowing smoke up your arse saying that they get them specially made to their spec.

Heller44 you are spot on my friend.

Edited by DiRTgarage
When I checked the denso part number on my 700cc sard's the same number corresponded to P.E. and a couple of others as well.. Looks like more putting a new box around the same product.

This is old news. Denso have always made injectors for a large number of different companies but each company can specify design characteristics if they wish.

rubbish...they are all made by Denso...no brand is better than the other. P.E. were blowing smoke up your arse saying that they get them specially made to their spec.

Heller44 you are spot on my friend.

Which is what I said. They are made by Denso for P.E to P.E specs.

Pintle cut angle, travel distance and impedence are just a few things that can be changed when designing an injector. I never said P.E is better. I said possibly better. That all depends on the application it's used in and the characteristics put into each one. Not all injectors are just an 'off the shelf' denso item. While companies like HKS may be happy with the design Denso is using for their off the shelf item, they may not and want to make some changes based on their research.

I can email Denso to confirm this if you really want me to.

How much do they sell for?

Im about to sell a set of sard's (700's) and wouldnt mind knowing whats a fair price to put on them :P

If they are in good nick and not too old you should be able to get $500-$600 for them only because it will cost $1000 for new ones. When the dollar gets better you might only be looking at around $400

if you could do that that would be great.

Ok I called Power Enterprise in Japan first but no one spoke english there so I called them in the USA. Please go here http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products...ector/index.htm and read the top of the page. Co-produced with Denso EXCLUSIVELY FOR POWER ENTERPRISE

I am still waiting for a call back from Denso Australia on an english speaking contact from Denso Japan who I can email. Would you like more proof or are you happy to accept that I am correct?

I would prefer you fly the Japanese dude over so I can have him tell me to my face that they are different before I believe any of this waffle.

Where do you get off taking you information from a company's corporate display at Tokyo Auto Salon?

Sheesh.

Ok I called Power Enterprise in Japan first but no one spoke english there so I called them in the USA. Please go here http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products...ector/index.htm and read the top of the page. Co-produced with Denso EXCLUSIVELY FOR POWER ENTERPRISE

I am still waiting for a call back from Denso Australia on an english speaking contact from Denso Japan who I can email. Would you like more proof or are you happy to accept that I am correct?

you have come up with nothing...what have you proved?

it actually says co-produced with Denso (denso make the injectors PE the packaging and marketing)...exclusively offered by Power Enterprise. Its clever wording Daniel..all PE need to do is make the box they come in and they can say co-produced...easy way to make people think they are getting something better...when actually its the same thing everybody else is producing. I have friends in marketing who tell me this is an old trick they use all the time when competing against an identical product.

ill buy a few of each and test them to make my own opinion. I would never believe a sales/marketing jibe as gospel...and only a fool would. These clever marketing campaigns suck some people in as it improves the companies market share in these tough times.

I bet the 700cc units are identical in spray pattern and flow to the SARD 700cc units.

Edited by DiRTgarage
you have come up with nothing...what have you proved?

it actually says co-produced with Denso (denso make the injectors PE the packaging and marketing)...exclusively offered by Power Enterprise. Its clever wording Daniel..all PE need to do is make the box they come in and they can say co-produced...easy way to make people think they are getting something better...when actually its the same thing everybody else is producing. I have friends in marketing who tell me this is an old trick they use all the time when competing against an identical product.

ill buy a few of each and test them to make my own opinion. I would never believe a sales/marketing jibe as gospel...and only a fool would. These clever marketing campaigns suck some people in as it improves the companies market share in these tough times.

I bet the 700cc units are identical in spray pattern and flow to the SARD 700cc units.

What's to say SARD don't use a similar or the same design for their injector?

I will get confirmation from Denso as it is clearly the only way to convince you. All I am saying is they are not just an off the shelf Denso Injector. They may be the same as a SARD or HKS in their design but you wouldn't know unless you pulled them both apart. Spray pattern will only tell you half the truth and only a fool would believe that a comparison of spray pattern was going to reveal anything conclusive

Spray pattern will only tell you half the truth and only a fool would believe that a comparison of spray pattern was going to reveal anything conclusive

hahahahahaha you get funnier with each post Daniel.

give up pal.

make sure you get the plugs with them as they are not the same as sards :D

can make sard plugs work if you cut off some lugs

used 700 pe's on a customers r34 gtr with no probs get a replacement connector

however turned in to nightmare

Edited by 1400r
If they are in good nick and not too old you should be able to get $500-$600 for them only because it will cost $1000 for new ones. When the dollar gets better you might only be looking at around $400

Ok no probs, thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...