Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Enterprise (pwr) Injectors, Esp 700cc

Phatboy

By Phatboy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
hahahahahaha you get funnier with each post Daniel.

give up pal.

I aim to please.

You southerners always say give up but you have not really provided any proof that I am incorrect other than to say you have a mate in marketing who says it's an old trick. Gee I must be wrong if he said that.

I spoke , in person, to a rep from the company and then a couple of hours ago I spoke on the phone to another one. I asked if the injectors were just an off the shelf Denso item. He said absolutely not!. He said again that they were made by Denso to their specs. I asked him to put something in writing so I could show you but he told me not to waste my time with wankers and he doesn't care if you don't want their injector because of it. He said they have nothing to prove or gain by doing such a thing.

So this is an apology to you if he is lying to my face and if the guy in the states is lying to me over the phone. I am sorry if they are lying. But until you can PROVE that I am incorrect and they are lying to me, then why don't YOU give up and stop giving people misleading information. At least my comments have foundation to them.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Ferrari pal vrrom vrrom

---------------------

Suprised some over zealous god moderator hasn’t closed this shit down.

I believe it would be important to reveal the outcome of my investigation. I will wait to hear what Denso have to say. I think it is important information that everyone can benefit from. I'm not here to sling rocks at Dirt, I just want proof when someone says I'm wrong.

Mushroom Veteran

Mushroom

Posted
Posted

Umm from a third person viewing this all i have seen so far is:

3lit3 32 made some phone calls to some what substanuate his claim that these items are made by Denso to a cetain spec as specified by Power Enterprise.

Dirt Garage has said this is crap and PE only make the packaging for this, but not been able to back it up with any more proof.

I think the person asking the question has the information that yse they are a quality injector, now he needs to make a decision if he wants these instead of nismo ones, unless someone else has some proof to provide.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
I aim to please.

You southerners always say give up but you have not really provided any proof that I am incorrect other than to say you have a mate in marketing who says it's an old trick. Gee I must be wrong if he said that.

I spoke , in person, to a rep from the company and then a couple of hours ago I spoke on the phone to another one. I asked if the injectors were just an off the shelf Denso item. He said absolutely not!. He said again that they were made by Denso to their specs. I asked him to put something in writing so I could show you but he told me not to waste my time with wankers and he doesn't care if you don't want their injector because of it. He said they have nothing to prove or gain by doing such a thing.

So this is an apology to you if he is lying to my face and if the guy in the states is lying to me over the phone. I am sorry if they are lying. But until you can PROVE that I am incorrect and they are lying to me, then why don't YOU give up and stop giving people misleading information. At least my comments have foundation to them.

he was reluctant to give you anything in writing because they know its all marketing crap...nothing more. He had everything to prove by releasing the information, he could have shown how their product is different/superior to everyone elses...but he chose not to. Actual proof that your product is superior in performance is a marketing bonanza...thats everything to gain from a profit point of view and would give them a hand over their competition. Instead he chose to be mature and call someone a wanker. Dan c'mon you must be able to smell a rat? Im not e-battleing with you over it...im over it. Ill order an injector and test them...i dont need to ask for a line off some PR guy on the phone etc.

you have your opinion and i have mine.

be friends shake hands and lets move it on ok.

its nice to be nice :happy:

Edited by DiRTgarage
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Ferrari pal vrrom vrrom

---------------------

Suprised some over zealous god moderator hasn’t closed this shit down.

Now why would i close it down Josh?

You QLD'ers always provide solid entertainment no matter what section its in.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
lol e-battle!

so does anyone have a price comparison on the pwr items vs sard?

It often depends on the supplier, if you check across nengun, greenline and various other places ive found sometimes one place has a better price than the other so it pays to shop around before buying

badhairdave Proficient

badhairdave

Posted
Posted

At the end of the day if denso are supplying an injector to sard and it has the same P/N as an injector supplied to PE then it's the same injector.

If they've changed it it'll have a different p/n

Someone make with the part numbers.

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
make sure you get the plugs with them as they are not the same as sards :)

can make sard plugs work if you cut off some lugs

used 700 pe's on a customers r34 gtr with no probs get a replacement connector

however turned in to nightmare

Whoa, holy shit?!?

If I understand correctly, you mean 700cc PEs into R34 GTR did not turn out well?? Can you please elaborate? Or PM me? I am due to get them installed tomorrow!

Thanks.

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
At the end of the day if denso are supplying an injector to sard and it has the same P/N as an injector supplied to PE then it's the same injector.

If they've changed it it'll have a different p/n

Someone make with the part numbers.

precisely Dave.

the part numbers are identical

Phatboy Mentor

Phatboy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I think the person asking the question has the information that yes they are a quality injector, now he needs to make a decision if he wants these instead of nismo ones, unless someone else has some proof to provide.

Thank you.

Nismo_Boy Grand Master

Nismo_Boy

Posted
Posted
Now why would i close it down Josh?

You QLD'ers always provide solid entertainment no matter what section its in.

What gave you the idea I meant you, Ash? There are two other moderators for this section. One I know for a fact dislikes my online persona a lot more then you.

Of course we would provide solid entertainment. It's the heat you see.

1400r Veteran

1400r

Posted
Posted

"make sure you get the plugs with them as they are not the same as sards

can make sard plugs work if you cut off some lugs

used 700 pe's on a customers r34 gtr with no probs getting a replacement connector

however turned in to nightmare"

errr?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • pacman_1219
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By pacman_1219 · Posted

      Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...