Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I had a troublesome one that kept popping off and making the car run like shiet!

Went right over the car last night and found a plug that was unhooed between dipstick and oil filter so I am hoping that might have something to do with it, I also found a lot of moisture in various plug connections so have dired them all out + I have pulled the afms out and will resolder the connections today!

Cant seem to work out which vacume hoses you guys are talking about? In and around FPR?

Thanks,

Dan

Went right over the car last night and found a plug that was unhooed between dipstick and oil filter so I am hoping that might have something to do with it, I also found a lot of moisture in various plug connections so have dired them all out + I have pulled the afms out and will resolder the connections today!

Cant seem to work out which vacume hoses you guys are talking about? In and around FPR?

Thanks,

Dan

Different car, mine was up the back under the throttlebody (gtst plenum).

i dont really wash my engine bay as i dont want to risk getting water into my coilpacks so what i usually do is wipe it down with a cloth but if you have to wash the engine bay, avoid the top part of the engine. i even had to tell the mechanics not to wash an rb motor with degreaser and pressure cleaner cause we had one who made a mistake of doing that and the car was misfiring badly and he had to take the coilpacks out again and blow dry them and the car ran fine afterthat. you can wash and degrease underneath the car or on the oil filter (which is away from the coilpacks) but avoid the cam and coilpack covers at all cost.

UPDATE: Still running rough- poor idle / Blowing white smoke / loss of boost / power

I have spent all day again going over everything

- solderd up afms again (the car is definitely running smoother but no boost/power and a lot of white smoke)

- checked vacume hoses

- checked electrical connectors and checked for exposed wiring

- Pulled apart BOVS (these were caked with fuel especially in the alloy elbow connector? Can this happen from to rich a mix? Normal?

(Boost gauge 'standard' still reading 0)

- should I get out the multimeter and start checking everythings getting power

- I have got a nissan consult cable and software but no working laptop, would it be worth borrowing one if its likely to pick up such error codes that are affecting car

Would it be worth taking my coilpacks out again and checking for moisture as i only gave these a quick wipe as i couldnt see any moisture on them- only down in the spark plug area where water was sitting?

Ok I am really stumped now so I'm going to mention everything i have done in the past weeks!

Changed my Pods over the other day from Hks mushy pods to some M's pods, i wouldnt need to reset my ecu for this would I? Running a BLITZ ACCESS ECU

Having my fuel pumped earthed at the moment meaning the pump continuously engaged- is it possible my injectors could be over-firing or somethings a miss with the FPR?

Thanks again for all the replys

Yeah mate up the front near the FPR and there is a little electrical connector near the hose I am talking about.

I pulled all the connectors out around this area aswell as plenum sensor thing but there wasnt a vacume hose? Not the one half-way down the intake plenum that connects into the head?

while u got the plugs out, do a quick check of compression

=] my rb had similar symptons as what your saying mate... wasnt lumpy but had smoke and that

cyc #6 was down a little.. i keep driving for a few days and noticed more whitey smoke

i mean the power was still there, until the last day when i decided to take it off the road.. coz i actually had oil blow back

and was running lumpy.

was my ring land had broke, melted to the top of the piston lol and most of came off during last day...

all due to running lean

while u got the plugs out, do a quick check of compression

=] my rb had similar symptons as what your saying mate... wasnt lumpy but had smoke and that

cyc #6 was down a little.. i keep driving for a few days and noticed more whitey smoke

i mean the power was still there, until the last day when i decided to take it off the road.. coz i actually had oil blow back

and was running lumpy.

was my ring land had broke, melted to the top of the piston lol and most of came off during last day...

all due to running lean

Had my compression checked at workshop probably 100km ago and it came back perfectly consistent 150s!

Do you mean just with a handheld compression tester gauge? I havnt used one of them before but will see if I can go pick myself up one tommorow!

I am still convinced its something ive done whilst cleaning engine as the car has barelly been driven 100km in the last year and a half and had been running perfectly before clean?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...