Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, about 2 months back shortly after i bought my r34 GT some problems started to occur that i tried to ignore them hoping they wouldnt came back but it seems to be happnening quite a fair bit now. It seems like the problems are very similar.

Problem 1. On startup at rare times the idle will be very irratic for a minuite or so.

Problem 2. The engine warning light will come on for no reason and the car acts fine for awhile, eventualy ill pull up to a set of lights or something and the idle will be extremely irractic, then when i go to take off i have to put my foot almost flat to the floor to take off as quickly as i normaly would, almost like im running on 5 cylinders or something.

Problem 3. Ive noticed on the highway if im going about 95 and i stay at the speed, every now and then all of a sudden the car gets a sudden boost in power and without me putting my foot down to accelerate the car starts accelerating i can easily hit 110 without moving my foot.

Also at times the car feels like it has more/less power then usual.

I just cant figure out whats goin so i thought id just ask in case someone has some clue of whats going on.

Should also mention the car is about to be booked in for a service.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/252460-strange-power-issues/
Share on other sites

i have some of those symptoms. and i've narrowed it down to what i suspect is the O2 sensor. i completely unplugged it and it made no difference (better or worse) so im assuming that means it farked!

have a read of this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/O2...sor-t43095.html

have you noticed poor fuel economy? that would normally be a good sign of the 02 sensor being rooted.

i dare say it would be the original part still in there, god knows japs dont look after their cars. i believe theyre recommended to be replaced every 40000.

theyre only $80-100 so its probably worth replacing anyway, otherwise id advise getting a diagnosis performed on a dyno. theyre quite useful.

good luck!

Ah thats interesting, might have to look into that. I should of also mentioned i get a very strong fuel smell in the car if i have my windows down or at low speeds. Im not sure exactly how many km to a full tank, all i know is it lasts me about 2 and a half weeks going to work and back. But thanks ill defently look into that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...