Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my spool is fitted very happy with it almost half the weight of the oem centre yet it looks indestructable

gearbox is a powerglide

and the doors are being made in 100% carbon fibre should be ready in may (being made locally brisbane)

how long till your car hits the track???

Edited by jas/slo32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254206-slo32/page/2/#findComment-4515214
Share on other sites

and the doors are being made in 100% carbon fibre should be ready in may (being made locally brisbane)....

that sounds great.....can you post up the weight with windows when you get them back? Would love to know how our lightened std route compares to full CF

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254206-slo32/page/2/#findComment-4527293
Share on other sites

Havent got the doors yet but did take the car to the weighbridge on the weekend @ race weight full fuel oil etc

car 1130kg raceweight

car with driver 1210kg

im hoping with carbon doors/bonnet/boot to get the car just under 1100kg but 30kg is alot of weight

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254206-slo32/page/2/#findComment-4538274
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Car will be for sale shortly with new engine 0 hours use

details

engine

rb26/30

grout filled block

nitrided crank

cp pistons

argo rods

arp rb26 head studs

hks 272 cams

arp bottom end studs

acl race bearings

jun oil pump

ati 1000hp balancer

ati dry sump drive (for fuel pump)

hks manifold exh

garrett gt42r

custom plenum with 100mm t/b

1800hp belt driven fuel pump/reg

12x 1600cc injectors

electrics

motec m8oo

msd dis 4

motec coils

6x egts

5 bar map sensor

all new wiring

driveline

2spd powerglide checked over rescently

new 6000rpm converter & vasco input shaft

1pc tailshaft

diff

gtr rear end

new full spool centre

new bearings

heims joint adj toe arms

body lightweight

as per previous post

gtr front guards

lexan windows

frp bonnet

frp headlights

current tech

minitubbed

parachute

14lt fuel cell

4lt catch tank

wheels

new 15x8 billett rear

new 15x3.5 billett rear

26x4 front

28x10 rear

price $40 000 ono with car trailer pm for more details

or ring 0424348521

Jason

post-15900-1253951201_thumb.jpg

Edited by jas/slo32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254206-slo32/page/2/#findComment-4848287
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Car is now for sale as a roller minus engine,trans,tailshaft,ecu,cdi & rego plates.

Weighs 1179kg race weight with 90kg driver

car drives straight,current tech,6 point cage etc etc

$10k ono need to make way for chassis car

Phone Jason 0429232288

located bundaberg qld

post-15900-0-64126300-1322381982_thumb.jpg

post-15900-0-31077000-1322382023_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254206-slo32/page/2/#findComment-6128763
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...