Jump to content
SAU Community

97" 260rs Help

Stagzilla

By Stagzilla,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Stagzilla Explorer

Stagzilla

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

I've been reading these forums quite alot since I was first considering buying a Stagea and have found alot of the detail on this site extremely helpfull.

I did end up buying one and must say it's been alot fun so far. That was until about a day after I has some work done at the Goldcoast, adding to some existing mods an apexi power fc and a set of HKS GT-SS turbos running on 1 bar. The issue I found last Saturday was the intercooler hose got shot out and I dont want to get it towed to a shop to do something I should be able to handle.

I've had a look at a few of the DIY's though the 260RS front bar is slightly different and hence havn't been able to get the front bar off in fear of breaking something, needing to re attach and tighten the clamp on the hose.

If anyone has removed one of these, I just wanted to check does the front bar top and bottom sections come out as a whole piece OR should this unclip from the bottom of the front bar somehow? Just wasn't sure as I cant get my spanner into the inside bolts for the headlights as the top of the front bar is in the way and I dont have a socket set.

Any help is appreciated, my fallback is calling a mobile mechanic and paying them to take care of it which quite frankly doesn't sound so bad right about now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254387-97-260rs-help/
Share on other sites
Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

umm, from memory... centre grill comes out by itself.

take off the underbody guard strip

pretty much you've got to find 10 or so screws underneath ..... torch, jack and some elbow room would be handy.

just takes time to get them all undone. as you go along you'll be ok.

good luck.

perhaps make sure all intercooler pipes are lipped at the ends to ensure it doesnt happen again? also, $10 clamps are a must!!! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254387-97-260rs-help/#findComment-4392252
Share on other sites
Stagzilla Explorer

Stagzilla

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I ended up getting it off after work today. It took me 3 hours though If I had to do it again I think it could be done alot faster.

The top section of the car which I was asking about previously, turned out it was fastened to the centre bar piece with double sided tape that had bonded quite tight and after some carefull pulling I managed to get it all out.

The intercooler already has a raised lip and I got some high quality bolt type clamps from Queensland Diesel Supplies which worked a treat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/254387-97-260rs-help/#findComment-4394534
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...