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Fuel efficiency is never Nissan's strength, that's why fuel-conscious people end up buying Hondas.

My bro moved from Honda Civic which uses around 6-7l/100km to Accord Euro and he complaint it's using too much petrol at around 9l/100km

Go figure. Too much or too little is subjective.

danny I hope you've actually tested a few V35 e.g. dealer test drive before actually buying one... if you can find one at a good price why not, especially in these times where A$ just only hovering around 50 to the Yen, it will be quite expensive exercise to import one from Japan...

If you wanna use the dvd/satnav you need to piggy back an aftermarket system on to the factory one. can't do anything on the factory one it will always be there sitting 'useless'. ask Chris Rogers but he's in Brisbane, maybe he knows someone good in Melb or maybe he want to organise another trip down here... if you're willing to bear the airline cost.

Same story with TV tuner. Jap TV won't work here. Piggy back it with aftermarket unit. You get lotsa remote in the car :-) might as well get a remote tray/organiser they sell in furniture stores and double side taped them to the dash.

I filled up petrol yesterday, 65ltr, maybe about 5km away from home. Travelled around 45km today to work and back. So I've used about 50km. my trip computer says I've got another 490km left to go so potentially it is 540km per tank of 65ltr plus a few more (maybe 5-10ltr) in my tank before I fill up - I may have 70 or 75ltr tank capacity.

but by experience I could probably get 20-30km extra than what the trip computer says.

That would make my average fuel consumption for daily work commuting around 560km-ish with around 65-70ltr so it works out about 11.5 to 12.5ltr /100km

tiptronic is effortless in city traffic. keep it in normal mode and it shifts up nicely (unless you got one with dodgy transmission), turn the power mode on and it will hold the gear longer and shift up a bit responsively. not bad for a quick spin. never driven the manual version but I reckon the shift action will be similar to 350Z as they should be using the same gearbox. got a friend with manual 350Z ?

  • 4 weeks later...

Danny, hope you come to your senses and buy one of these great cars. If not mucked around with--they are very reliable. Servicing is cheap would be cheaper than Lexus-Mines got 38K klms. now and mechanic says still have anoth 10 before I even look at brakes.

Consumption is around 9klm(11/100) a litre on busy syd roads or 15klm(<7/100),/ highways. I cant work out how people think toyotas or hondas are better. My brothers 3.5 ltre Aurion albeit auto-does not get this. & Auto CRV Honda 2.4only slightly better.Mines manual but from all I hear the auto is very little diff.

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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