Jump to content
SAU Community

Please Confirm - Size/pitch/offset Standard V35 Sedan Rims

SARRAS
 Share

Recommended Posts

SARRAS Apprentice

SARRAS

Posted
Posted

dones anyone know the Size/Pitch/Offset for the standard V35 Sedan Rims?

thanks

WTB: 2003/2004 or 2005 Nissan Skyline V35GT Sedan with the 3.5litre V6

Manual 6 Speed Gearbox

Leather pack for the Seats

Factory Sunroof

Factory Bose Stereo System

Silver, Charcoal or either of the Blues in Colour

40-50K Maximum mileage

Xenon Headlights

  • 3 months later...
siu_loong_bao Rising Star

siu_loong_bao

Posted
Posted

Sorry to dig this thread up, but I'm a NOOB with respect to rims and want to ask what offsets are required for each width for a V35 Skyline Sedan? I am looking to buy some rims and keep getting mixed messages on the offsets that will suit without modification.

FRONT - Max Offset? Min Offset?

8" rims

8.5" rims

9" rims

REAR - Max Offset? Min Offset?

8" rims

8.5" rims

9" rims

9.5" rims

10" rims

So far, I've been told (via various for sale posts and other websites):

FRONT

8" rim = +17 Offset will fit

8" rim = +30 Offset will fit (standard 350z 18" rim offset)

8.5" rim = +23 Offset will fit

8.5" rim = +25 Offset will fit

8.5" rim = +29 Offset will fit

9" rim = +25 Offset will fit

REAR

8" rim = +30 Offset will fit (standard 350z 18" rim offset)

9.5" rim = +27 Offset will fit

9.5" rim = +29 Offset will fit

9.5" rim = +30 Offset will fit

9.5" rim = +35 Offset will fit

10" rim = +25 Offset will fit

Do you now see why I am confused? Any help will be appreciated.

And, how do you know if rims will clear big brakes? I may upgrade to a big brake kit in future and don't want to limit myself now by buying a rim that doesn't do the job later.

Also, with tyres, under what circumstances would you use 45, 40, 35? Obviously, the larger the diametre of the rim, the thinner the tyre. So, does this mean:

18" rims = 45 tyre?

19" rims = 40 tyre?

20" rims = 35 tyre?

Or am I wrong?

Whilst we are on tyres, can someone now clarify what width tyres fit on:

8" rims = 225 tyre?

8.5" rims = 245 tyre?

9" rims = 265 tyre?

9.5" rims = 275 tyre?

10" = ?

Maybe once someone can answer my NOOB questions, this can be posted as a sticky for all V35 owners as a quick ref guide or something...

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

Ok firstly, the wheel offset guide I posted above should be your guide as to what fits and what doesn't. I have however managed to achieve a little bit more with slightly more aggresive offsets.

Secondly my advise is based on your car being lowered at least 1" all round. If you are lowered more than that you will more likely be able to squeeze in a lower offset wheel.

FRONT - Max Offset? Min Offset?

8" rims up to +28 before requiring fender roll

8.5" rims +30 no fender roll

9" rims +35 no fender roll

REAR - Max Offset? Min Offset?

8" rims

8.5" rims +33 no fender roll

9" rims +37 no fender roll; +31 fender roll (245 tires)

9.5" rims +40 no fender roll; +35 fender roll

10" rims +45 or + 50 no fender roll

If in doubt you can use this calculator to work out how much your new wheels will move toward or from your fender.

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

Ok moving on to brake clearance. If you are buying Jap wheels, Work, Rays, SSRs etc, they usually state disk type

Normally denoted by A = Standard disk (will clear factory v35 brakes), O = Super low (fine for the rears), R = Hi Disk for BBK or Brembos

If you are planning on upgrading brakes, then it would be in your best interest to buy wheels that have R disk or Hi disk

Check this spec sheet as an example:

http://www.workwheelsusa.com/media/wheels/26/72/VSKF_PDF.pdf (note wheels with super low brake clearance are normally ones with bigger dish)

Finally tire size and profile:

Needs to conform to factory Overall Diameter or else it will throw your speedo out.

Use 245/45/18 as your base spec. + or - 15mm is OK.

Then go to the tyre calculator to work out what you need if you go 17s or 19s

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

If you are planning to run big widths and aggresive offsets, you will also need to choose smaller width tyres to avoid scrubbing eg: rears 245 instead of 265

Disclaimer: The above advise is still fairly conservative with regards to offsets. If you want to dump your ride and run -3 degree camber and stretch 225 tires on a 10" rim you can still achieve most of the below offsets. :down:

Hope this helps.

Sorry to dig this thread up, but I'm a NOOB with respect to rims and want to ask what offsets are required for each width for a V35 Skyline Sedan? I am looking to buy some rims and keep getting mixed messages on the offsets that will suit without modification.

FRONT - Max Offset? Min Offset?

8" rims

8.5" rims

9" rims

REAR - Max Offset? Min Offset?

8" rims

8.5" rims

9" rims

9.5" rims

10" rims

So far, I've been told (via various for sale posts and other websites):

FRONT

8" rim = +17 Offset will fit

8" rim = +30 Offset will fit (standard 350z 18" rim offset)

8.5" rim = +23 Offset will fit

8.5" rim = +25 Offset will fit

8.5" rim = +29 Offset will fit

9" rim = +25 Offset will fit

REAR

8" rim = +30 Offset will fit (standard 350z 18" rim offset)

9.5" rim = +27 Offset will fit

9.5" rim = +29 Offset will fit

9.5" rim = +30 Offset will fit

9.5" rim = +35 Offset will fit

10" rim = +25 Offset will fit

Do you now see why I am confused? Any help will be appreciated.

And, how do you know if rims will clear big brakes? I may upgrade to a big brake kit in future and don't want to limit myself now by buying a rim that doesn't do the job later.

Also, with tyres, under what circumstances would you use 45, 40, 35? Obviously, the larger the diametre of the rim, the thinner the tyre. So, does this mean:

18" rims = 45 tyre?

19" rims = 40 tyre?

20" rims = 35 tyre?

Or am I wrong?

Whilst we are on tyres, can someone now clarify what width tyres fit on:

8" rims = 225 tyre?

8.5" rims = 245 tyre?

9" rims = 265 tyre?

9.5" rims = 275 tyre?

10" = ?

Maybe once someone can answer my NOOB questions, this can be posted as a sticky for all V35 owners as a quick ref guide or something...

350GT-ATE Apprentice

350GT-ATE

Posted
Posted (edited)

Excuse my ignorance but I thought the fronts were already rolled from factory? Unless you meant removing the inner fender "protector" things and rolling it further since those plastic fender covers are screwed onto the guard... I'm planning to fit a 9.5" +22 wheel up front with around 1-1.5 degrees negative camber and 225 tyres, do you reckon it's possible without removing the fender covers? I'm almost certain it'll rub at full lock :P

Edited by 350GT-ATE
n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted

I think you might be right about the fronts already rolled. I have only rolled my rears.

Going 9.5 at the fronts you will have two problems. Too high an offset the inner rim will hit the suspension. Go lower offset and it will stick outside your guards like dogs balls.

Check out the chart above.

9" at the fronts would be optimal. You really don't need to go any wider at the fronts or you'll have problems steering the damn thing :P

Pulp Veteran

Pulp

Posted
Posted

Any info in regards to the coupes?

I've been looking a set of wheels, 10" on the rears and 8.5 or 8" on the front, offset +22 for the 10" ones according to site. Would like that I'd not need to roll my guards.

Cheers!

n15m0 Grand Master

n15m0

Posted
Posted
Any info in regards to the coupes?

I've been looking a set of wheels, 10" on the rears and 8.5 or 8" on the front, offset +22 for the 10" ones according to site. Would like that I'd not need to roll my guards.

Cheers!

Coupe guards and wheel specs are similar to 350z = massive potential!

9.5 +22 F and 10.5 +22 rears not a problem at all.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...