Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok ill try and keep this short but i thought u guys should know what i found out the hard way ........anyway i bought a r32 gts-t 6 months ago thing ran fine untill the water pump started to leak and it was nosiy so i contacted the warrany ppl and i got a brand new gen r32 nissan pump so im happy drive around for 2 months and guess what !! the thing is leakin from the front so i take it bak to the guys who fitted it for me and they are like np will fix no carge sweet!! get the car bak now its doin it again same leak same place so im gettin sus and i asked a few ppl in the know and came across someone who had this prob happen to a few of his customers now from what he tells me

1 in 5 rb20 motors will suffer from this isuse on the water pump where the 10mm bolt goes in there is a slot type hole about 1.5cm long (see pic )ole is very close the the edge where the the water flows and with time it starts to leak now after looking at a rb30 pump it dont have this slot and from what ive seen on other r32 pumps they dont ether so why are nissan sellin these pumps as replacments havnt they encountered this b4 anyone else here who can shed some light on this and offer a advice as im going to nissan 1st thing in the morning and i will be jammin this pump up there F%$&n Arse i will keep u guys posted and ill will supply the the part no for this pump so no one goes though this

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25661-nissan-r32-water-pump-look-out/
Share on other sites

thanks for the replys i think ive fixed the prob ive used a rb30 water pump this should fix the prob time will tell i guess also does anyone here know where to get the full clear lens for the front indicator ive found a place that sells them but at $755 plus shipping i might have to wait awhile

  • 6 months later...
i bought a n1 water pump and it has the same slot/hole.. its so it bolts on to gtr blocks n stuff as well i think.. i just filled it with some shit and off i went.

yes but it will only hold for a little while trust me i had to take bak mine 3 times now since ive used this pump no probs since and its been 7 months btw what did u fill it with?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...