Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, just some stats for ya's :)

First tank of Caltex Vortex 98 that I put in my M35, well not a whole tank 41.43L to be precise :)

It got me 312km's, which I don't think is too bad considering the first 150km's was taking it easy and being contained and the second half, well need I elaborate ;)

Let's just say I gave the manual shift (with high rev's of course) and the 4WD traction a good test run ;)

The on-board system gives me a read out (the english parts I can read, the japanese, not so well!!) 6KM/L, the green leaf is a bit off putting tho because everytime you tickle the peddle the green disappears out of the leaf lol. I spose it's best for the environment if you don't touch the peddle :D

Anyway, only good things to report so far, nothing has fallen off or blown up (touch wood).

I've been up to the Central Coast and then back into the city and then to Blacktown, surprised in all of those K's today that no-one spotted me and posted!! :P

I'm glad I got the M35, everyone thinks it's like a 4 cylinder or something innocent, they all think they can go quicker or get off the line faster.. This is not the case and they were left embarrassed and confused lol

Anyway, this has been the rambling of a new Stagea owner, I'll be hopping along now :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/256891-guzzle-guzzle-guzzle/
Share on other sites

Gotta love that AWD, right? If I was stupid enough to street-race and risk my license and car, the results in the rain would almost always swing my way against Falcadores, etc. with RWD.

I wasn't racing as such, just getting egged on by people in NA Celica's and the likes :)

Then they heard my motor and realized they had underestimated the delivery wagon :P

Let's round up some Stagea's and do a run along the Putty Road to Singleton and then back on the F3, stop somewhere for lunch and a pow wow etc :D

take the blank piece out of the stock airbox and put a filter in there and youll have a nice sound that people also dont expect :P

my fuel economy is pretty shit as well, the dealer suggested i put some injector cleaner through it (car is at 100k) and this might fix it. but im haing gearbox problems - dont worry it doesnt seem common at all - and they think its either a misfire due to fuel (lack of or too much) or a torque converter problem.

anyway, im hoping its a fuel problem so my economy gets better!!

and feel free to go on about them, we already know they are an awesome car :D

take the blank piece out of the stock airbox and put a filter in there and youll have a nice sound that people also dont expect :)

my fuel economy is pretty shit as well, the dealer suggested i put some injector cleaner through it (car is at 100k) and this might fix it. but im haing gearbox problems - dont worry it doesnt seem common at all - and they think its either a misfire due to fuel (lack of or too much) or a torque converter problem.

anyway, im hoping its a fuel problem so my economy gets better!!

and feel free to go on about them, we already know they are an awesome car :)

Hahaha, I'll leave the airbox as it is for now. I'm happy with the power response and delivery and think it goes fast enough for atleast a few months :banana: There are only so many demerit points on a drivers licence ;)

Sorry to hear about your gearbox, hope it's not something major.

Hope you get it all sorted out and get it running 100% :)

6KM/L? Wow, I thought the M35's were heaps better with fuel consumption. That equates to about 16.5L/100KM. Maybe you need to replace o2 sensor?

Maybe I need to ease off on the pedal and drive it in auto instead of manual shifting... nah... it's more fun consuming the fuel :)

First time I had the car I was gunning it everywhere and achieved 5.5km/L. Now that i'm taking it easy it's doing 7.5km/L and getting about 550km on a full tank.

Also today I had to get a pink slip. Took it to a local workshop, the guy drove around the block, came back and almost shat himself when he got out. He said to me, "this thing goes pretty hard, does it have twin turbos or something?". I just smiled. He then got his other work mates and they swarmed around the car.

Congrats on the new car btw.

13.5-18.5L/100 for an M35 :)

gotten 9.6L/100km with 85% of that being fwy driving today, fair bit of lead foot, normally around town with a fair bit of heavy footedness it uses 11-12 with a few short fwy trips, or at worst 15-16!

all figures in this post is litres per 100km

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...