Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

in skylines, the radiator cap is lower than other parts of the cooling system, hey do this so the front of the car can be lower.. that is why you need to bleed the air out of the bleeder in the inlet manifold..

the breather tank moves the cap higher than everything else.. so if you mount it on the strut tower, with the second cap above the engine, it now becomes the highest point and all the air in the system will gather there, allowing you to easily bleed the air from the system by simply running the engine and filling it up..

rb's if not bled properly will gather air in the cylinder head as its higher than the radiator and the cyl head temps will get high and cause damage also the pressure of the cooling system will be low and it will do bugger all.. so its important to bleed them. breather tanks are better value for money than catch cans if you ask me.

cheers

Linton

so with the breather tank u dont need a bleed bolt no more as i remove it when putting greddy intake on my car and the realised thati cant bleed air for cooling system so with the breather tank i can bleed the air out

thank heaps mate

how do u hook a breather tank up the right way as its in japanense

im assuming that the bleeder has a radiator cap on top.. what has come in the kit??

most of them have a t piece that plumbs into a coolant line, or the coolant line gets replaced by the lines and bleeder tank.. just like a catch can arrangement but with coolant instead of blowby.

im assuming that the bleeder has a radiator cap on top.. what has come in the kit??

most of them have a t piece that plumbs into a coolant line, or the coolant line gets replaced by the lines and bleeder tank.. just like a catch can arrangement but with coolant instead of blowby.

here is a couple pics of what it come with i think i need to buy the big split in the bottom rad hose

post-32902-1235344111_thumb.jpg

post-32902-1235344139_thumb.jpg

here is a couple pics of what it come with i think i need to buy the big split in the bottom rad hose

The picture looks like it explains it. Yes you need to get a tee for the bottom radiator hose. You can buy these for water temp sensors. You will then need to get a nipple that screws into it to attach a hose to. The top end looks like it sits between the over flow bottle and the radiator. the highest to the overflow bottle the lowest to the radiator. The other one can be capped off. Just make sure that you mount the top of it higher than the cap of the radiator so the air rises to the breather tank.

that is how i trought it would go just wanted to make sure

it has to sit higher then any coolant running around right so the dose that mean it has to be higher then the coolant line it the top of the turbo has i have a hi mount

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
    • 300kW is so boring in a Skyline, you'll get spanked by someone's mum's Golf with Alibaba pipes, and an email tune.
×
×
  • Create New...