Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some of you may have seen them at the cruise, but if not i just got New Rims and tyres, my last tyres were some shity "nankang" brand, still the rims and tyres are in ok shape, so can smoke them up later haha

Got the Rims, Tyres + Major Allignment @ a place Called Emerald Tyres, in Joondalup - They are very good, as we Have used them for previous car, and can get in almost any rim you need, Speak to Damion there, Great Bloke :(

Not the Greatest Picture but you get the Idea

I had 235's all round B4 Kerb attacked me :D, It now Has 235/40 on the Front, and 245/40 on the rear, With Good Quality Kumho tyres all round.

Rims are "Speedy Wheels Inferno's With some Stagger Option on the Rear's for a deeper Dish"

DSC00427.jpg

Oh and was Bored today so i stripped out all the plastic/fury stuff from boot as it had acid Stains all over it from battery leaking also ate away at the thin piece of board covering spare, And Sprayed it all Up, Looks Much Better now, Couldnt find the smaller lens for Camera so this is the best shot i could get.

DSC00442.jpg

Edited by Stealthed
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258199-new-rims-wheels/
Share on other sites

18x8 fronts and 18x9 rears??? Yea thats same as mine, and yes its that Old Bridgestone place, Just behind that new Fantastic Furniture

Edited by Stealthed
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258199-new-rims-wheels/#findComment-4439876
Share on other sites

$2000, all up, They looked after me :blink: So i recomend going there if you need rims and tyres because i Went to Ian Diffen, they were to slack, didnt really help, and Bob jane was way overpriced, Emerald tyres Took good Care of me and the car!!

Edited by Stealthed
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258199-new-rims-wheels/#findComment-4440322
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...