Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Was driving along at 70kph @3000rpm when all of a sudden there was a single loud clunk, the car hesitated like the brakes were jammed on for a second then i engaged the clutch and the revs slowly died. at this point the reds came on, lost all power and pulled over.

There was no smoke, wierd smells or and leaks from the engine bay. I tried to get reds and there was no power at all. Tried again and the reds came on but no fuel pump noise (its a Walbro 255l job). Kicked it over and it started for a few seconds then stalled. The engine was smooth for these few seconds.

Checked ignition fuse and all was ok.

Any ideas on what i should check or what it could be?

thanks

Give your fuel tank a few whacks and while some one tries to start the car this will sometimes shock a dead fuel pump back to life, to check it in a no start scenario pull the fuel feed line off and put it in a bottle and get some one to crank the car be carfeull to sheilds your eyes

Is weird that the reds wearnt on at one stage, test your battery as they are notorious for not wanting to start with low cranking voltage

of all things it turned out to be the intercooler hoses coming off and as a result AFMs not working and fowling of plugs.

Turns out my mechanic didnt do up any of the clamps when he had the air box out. Not happy Jan. Better this than something major i guess.

The car is running sweet again. :wacko:

Edited by mattblack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...