Jump to content
SAU Community

Third's The Charm!


Tangles
 Share

Recommended Posts

....

first was stock side-mount intercooler, then stock R34 smic, then Apexi 'Hybrid' medium sized 290x200 fmic, now a $45 trust 600x300 from moderator whatsisname (top bloke btw)

put it on 2 days ago underneath the reo bar, but that was no good, far too low.

cid_863.jpg

today my 5mm wheel spacers arrived, $5ea billet aluminium very good quality, whacked them on each rim, and decided to redo the fmic install, going with what I had to work with.

test driving afterwards proved that the wider wheelbase (10mm) makes the wagon track as it should, feels SO so good.

cid_332.jpg

cid_177-1.jpg

had the front bar off in 5mins, and took mytime undoing each bolt clamp.

grabbed the angle grider and cut 5mm in and across, just a 600mm long section where required.

hung the cooler up with 2 fresh drill holes at the top of the reo (cooler had 2 top brackets, handy) and bolted it up, sturdy as can be. nice and square, regular-like.

cid_267-1.jpg

cid_940.jpg

cid_51-1.jpg

then bolted the pipes back together, starting at the airbox and worked my way across. used what I had (all lipped ends, 3ply joiners, bolt clamps) and seems to be pretty good.

will run some aluminium mesh across the bottom of the cooler bolted to each cut corner of the dayz front bar

had a quick hills run, no problems. needs some tyres and a wheel alignment in around a thousand kms tho. :)

as said however the extra wheel base width suits the attessa so much ! awesomness~200 ! handles very well indeed, watch out this is one sharp wagon !

Image009-1.jpg

230kw when tuned on the 12th at Boostwerks is my guess, using the sard extra injector and hks controller ;)

Tangles - boosting happily thru the twisties :down:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheers mate !

yeah, as you know being so tall (201cm) and no kneecaps after 12 surgeries, its so hard to do stuff

today Im in horrible agony ey. very very sore, didnt sleep a wink last night, knees are crying out.

daytime pic

cid_751.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i feel for ya mate with all your operations and stuff

i am generally sore when working on my car so cant imagine what you would be like

valuable time spent is definately showing up on this car now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spotted a white stagea on sth rd morphett vale, Bumper chopped out with some shocking intercooler fitment! (looked like a 5yr old mounted it!)

If it was you someone doesn't like it on ns!

I don't like the chopped bar look to VL turbo for me. But if you like it then thats what is important!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it was you someone doesn't like it on ns!

I don't like the chopped bar look to VL turbo for me. But if you like it then thats what is important!

lol, if that was thw 180sx I saw - I didnt like that one either !!!!! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, alright, I take it back. I hadn't bothered to compare the terminal numbers - they're not the same. I was working on the presumption that it was the "small plug" half of the HICAS CU because it has the same plug as the small plug on the HICAS CU. And...the drawing says "Refer to Super HICAS system circuit diagram" which seemed to place it firmly in the world of HICAS, not non-HICAS.
    • You definitely have a big problem if with the adjustment screw closed up you're idling at 1200 rpm. Have you verified you have no vacuum leaks? No throttle shaft seal leaks? Nobody has messed with the throttle body set screws? I would love to see what Consult reports when your engine is idling that high.
    • HICAS has a much more complicated circuit diagram, for some reason the R32 GTR service manual discusses both. The HICAS module has proper 2 way communication over consult, the "EPS control unit" doesn't have any of that and only exposes a raw analog voltage for the EPS solenoid valve. It's ultimately mostly about speed sensitive steering but the non-HICAS unit also looks at the neutral switch/brake/clutch switch to adjust how it provides assist.
    • I'm still negotiation Aus Time attack which falls on my wife's birthday weekend...
    • Yeah, that doesn't necessarily mean that it flows. If the exit side pipework is blocked somewhere (in the hose, in the nipple that it returns into the motor/plumbing, etc), but the supply side is not blocked, then when you crack the bleeder you will get flow from the open side. But when you close the bleeder - no flow. And.... therefore no heat. You might have to work a little harder to prove it to yourself. When I bought my engine the entire IACV bleeder was choked with cooling system schmutz. I had to clean it and the pipework out before it would work.
×
×
  • Create New...