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Need A New Clutch


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Hi guys, I'm up for a new clutch, I've read a few threads on clutches and im probably leaning towards a Exedy Organic HD clutch. The car is a R33 with around 190rwkw. Ive tried ringing Jim Berry like 5 times on different days but havent been able to get a hold of him (he said he would call me back and hasnt) to see what kinda clutch he can offer me, I'm done chasing him so I'll probably just go for the Exedy HD or should i go for the Exedy cushion button? The car is a daily driver so it needs to be driveable through heavy traffic.

I will probably do the clutch change my self but just wanted to ask what bearings are usually changed when changing the clutch? Cause at the moment I've got like a cricket sound in the gearbox when the clutch is not pressed in, as soon as i press it in a little bit it goes away. Also when i press the clutch pedal sometimes it sqeaks... so what should i be looking at when i change the clutch? Any help appreciated.

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The organic should be fine for the power your running, I had an Exedy 5 puk HDB in mine and it wasn't too undrivable at all. It did however toast itself and semi melt itself to the flywheel the other week. Thats after 12,000k's and apparently there was no free play.

The kit will come with a thrust/throw out bearing, which is the one causing your noise I think. It is the one that the clutch fork pushes against the pressure plate.

The sqeak is most likely where the fork pivots off the pivot ball inside the bell housing. carefully add grease to the pivot ball, don't get any on any clutch component or flywheel. Probably a good idea to have the flywheel machined at the same time.

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I have an organic which is rated to 240kw (which is what i'm running and its fine). Perfect for heavy traffic.

As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

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As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

I read a few threads on this spigot bearing and damn its not the easiest thing to get out...but i'll try packing grease inside to force it out.

And definetly getting the flywheel machined, thanks for the replies.

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I have an organic which is rated to 240kw (which is what i'm running and its fine). Perfect for heavy traffic.

As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

That reminded me, woulda totally forgotten when put everything back together, just ordered one. Cheers!

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I had a sports organic and it didnt last too long, and i wasnt ridiculously harsh on it but there was a bit of 'spirited' driving. Put is this way, the standard clutch lasted longer.. with only slightly less mods (being frotn mount and boost)

I now run a full monty from jim berry and its top notch, never slips or reaks like the excedy ones do, and was even easier to press than the excedy, it can be a bit bitey but you get used to it - i use it as a daily driver.

I highly reccomend calling him again, the number i get him on is 07 38479999

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