Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

why dont we just convert your gtr into a track only one..

we can gut it out, and put in a rwd switch - its simple rlly - and cheaper than spending 10k on a sr

:P:D

sr's are for people with vagina's

got in to work late today yay. hose clamp on my twin turbo pipe slipped off. wasnt even a proper hoseclamp f**kin stupid whoever put it there but anyway. Its all good now just took me an hour to find a place in Jimboomba that sells clamps in the right size. Ended up at some pump repair place lol. One more thing to add to my glove box repair kit.

got in to work late today yay. hose clamp on my twin turbo pipe slipped off. wasnt even a proper hoseclamp f**kin stupid whoever put it there but anyway. Its all good now just took me an hour to find a place in Jimboomba that sells clamps in the right size. Ended up at some pump repair place lol. One more thing to add to my glove box repair kit.

freeway driving in 3rd?

you gracing us with your emo'ish ways tonight nismo? astro is a quitter..

cold!

WHEN NO ONE CAME TO SEE YOU AT B&R - I DID!

yeh motherf**ker

WHEN NO ONE WAS GOING TO HELP YOU AND SHAN STEAL RIMS - I WAS THERE

yeh!

you dog

full of it.. Coffee square, Little hong kong are rip off and gives you food poising.

Little singapore*which owns little hong kong* is a rip off has hk/malay chefs not sg chefs.

malaya corner is a rip.. order tom yum chicken wings came out nuked over cooked

Thai orchid - A bunch of chinese owns it great authenticity

the only place i eat at is the viet place..

if you want asian food you just go up the road where the roundabout with the BP.. the asian food place there actually makes great food..

I'm aware of these. But they do serve pretty decent food there. You cant really expect much in Brissy... food wise. Anyway I like the Taiwanese places more nowadays. The fried chicken fillet is awesome.

wow that sucks what type of engine is that again beelzebub??? an RB perhaps?

Yep the insane power of the RB vibrated the hose clamp loose. Its a shame but an easy fix. :D

freeway driving in 3rd?

Was like 10mins from home, engine all nice and warm. give it a bootful coming out of a t intersection and no boost.

Only if we can cry while listening to FFTL

Are you gunna cuddle aswell?

WHEN NO ONE WAS GOING TO HELP YOU AND SHAN STEAL RIMS - I WAS THERE

yeh!

You was about to sh*T yo pants.. was like cmon guys.. i dont like it being here.. we was the epic trio of multi nations

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...