Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

boot floors are part of crumple zone, its meant to crease, you just put it on the rack and pull it straight again. as long as your rails aren't kinked its easy panel beating with parts from a donor cut if the floor's too creased to pull straight.

it'll cost the workshop about 3k to 5k to fix, but obviously they're gonna quote you 8k to make a tidy profit, they're not a charity.

If you don't have a workshop hookup that'll look after you, your best option is find a couple of workshops that'll give you high quotes, enough to write off the car. Just Car's threshold is 70% to 75% of the value of the car. Sometimes you might have to pay em a $100 to make em give you two quotes high enough to get the payout. For them its $100 for typing up a piece of paper and getting the shop down the road to do the same.

Its a good deal Brandon. Tristans car does epic skids :P

I dont think 8k is unreasonable. It would be a fair amount of work to straighten up the car properly and things will always come up which are unexpected. Its probably a 6k job but the guy has given himself a buffer.

PS: GTR + RWD Mode?...

Yea. If it's in my hand it'll be end up like that s15 in the Tokyo Drift movie. Time to knock off work!

boot floors are part of crumple zone, its meant to crease, you just put it on the rack and pull it straight again. as long as your rails aren't kinked its easy panel beating with parts from a donor cut if the floor's too creased to pull straight.

it'll cost the workshop about 3k to 5k to fix, but obviously they're gonna quote you 8k to make a tidy profit, they're not a charity.

If you don't have a workshop hookup that'll look after you, your best option is find a couple of workshops that'll give you high quotes, enough to write off the car. Just Car's threshold is 70% to 75% of the value of the car. Sometimes you might have to pay em a $100 to make em give you two quotes high enough to get the payout. For them its $100 for typing up a piece of paper and getting the shop down the road to do the same.

not a bad thought funky - ill see what the quotes end up as..

Like OMG ULEH SKIDS?

lol i'm so far from a uleh its not funny!

track skids only haha

PS: GTR + RWD Mode?...

You!

I just got a Do Luck Torque Manager with some of krudd's money.

Its fuckin epic. Better than all the other ETS's on the marke. Lets you select what speed you want it to operate at, what torque spilt you want while cornering, and what torque spilt to use while going straight. You want this in your car, along with more low.

use a translator on this site:

http://www.do-luck.com/dtm.html

http://www.do-luck.com/dtm_setting1.html

not a bad thought funky - ill see what the quotes end up as..

If you wanna be sneaky, tell em the agreed value of the car is 20k. So when they do the maths they'll think that if they quote around 10k to 12k they'll still get the job.

Like OMG ULEH SKIDS?

Nah like epic angle skids.

not a bad thought funky - ill see what the quotes end up as..

lol i'm so far from a uleh its not funny!

track skids only haha

Oi I hate tomatos Uleh! *kebabslap* (Shan a gif needs to be added of that kebab slap so we can have it as an emote)

You!

I just got a Do Luck Torque Manager with some of krudd's money.

Its f**kin epic. Better than all the other ETS's on the marke. Lets you select what speed you want it to operate at, what torque spilt you want while cornering, and what torque spilt to use while going straight. You want this in your car, along with more low.

use a translator on this site:

http://www.do-luck.com/dtm.html

http://www.do-luck.com/dtm_setting1.html

I have other things that need attention before that is considered. But one will be going in the car eventually :P

If you wanna be sneaky, tell em the agreed value of the car is 20k. So when they do the maths they'll think that if they quote around 10k to 12k they'll still get the job.

Thats genius lol

sif, you're a leb emo.

emo420-031709105040.jpg

bahahahahaha. So true

32's are like Dunlop Volleys, if you rip one you just get another one, not try n fix the ripped one :)

32's are like Dunlop Volleys, if you rip one you just get another one, not try n fix the ripped one :)

lol or you just wear the ripped ones...

good chance to upgrade to a nice HR31 i suppose :laugh:

Upgrade? Does not compute.

32's are like Dunlop Volleys, if you rip one you just get another one, not try n fix the ripped one :)

Agree. Try to claim everything and get a new/better 1.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...