Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

ps: astro check my sig, its locked in bish...

yeh matey just noticed it :)

looks delicious

was at pce this arvo - turbz is looking sexy as feck!

:)

ooohh yeeh boy

Can I dibs on a passenger seat for a mountain run?

Yeah boi, assuming my car is in touge-able condition by the time it happens

Got a quote to fix/modify my shocks today

Cost to replace top thread - :):(:)

Cost to rebuild at same time - free (they have to dissasemble them anyway)

Cost to revalve at same time - not much more, but then i'd really have to do the rears as well so double it :(

Cost to shorten stroke at the same time - :(:(:(:(:( x 50

Car is back together now though with spare shocks and standard strut tops :)

Yeah boi, assuming my car is in touge-able condition by the time it happens

Got a quote to fix/modify my shocks today

Cost to replace top thread - :):(:(

Cost to rebuild at same time - free (they have to dissasemble them anyway)

Cost to revalve at same time - not much more, but then i'd really have to do the rears as well so double it :(

Cost to shorten stroke at the same time - :(:) x 50

Car is back together now though with spare shocks and standard strut tops :)

atleast you get a free cupping from dan :)

It's my birthday tomorrow... Someone buy me this...

Stop going to the movies so much and buying video cameras and shit and you could probably afford it :)

P.S. Good taste :)

Hey hey got a progress pic , still a long way to go :( but at least its gettin there.

very very nice :) good things take time

i think some ball cupping is in order...

Thanks for the ride bitch :)

i have had no car for the last couple of days.. my fuel tank was all corroded inside to a point that micro-pieces of rust where being primed into the pump and ended up blocking it..

to get the car back o the road i need a new fuel tank and to clean my pump..

I also decided to get some new parts for it, needa beat some rbs :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...