Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

ps: astro check my sig, its locked in bish...

yeh matey just noticed it :)

looks delicious

was at pce this arvo - turbz is looking sexy as feck!

:)

ooohh yeeh boy

Can I dibs on a passenger seat for a mountain run?

Yeah boi, assuming my car is in touge-able condition by the time it happens

Got a quote to fix/modify my shocks today

Cost to replace top thread - :):(:)

Cost to rebuild at same time - free (they have to dissasemble them anyway)

Cost to revalve at same time - not much more, but then i'd really have to do the rears as well so double it :(

Cost to shorten stroke at the same time - :(:(:(:(:( x 50

Car is back together now though with spare shocks and standard strut tops :)

Yeah boi, assuming my car is in touge-able condition by the time it happens

Got a quote to fix/modify my shocks today

Cost to replace top thread - :):(:(

Cost to rebuild at same time - free (they have to dissasemble them anyway)

Cost to revalve at same time - not much more, but then i'd really have to do the rears as well so double it :(

Cost to shorten stroke at the same time - :(:) x 50

Car is back together now though with spare shocks and standard strut tops :)

atleast you get a free cupping from dan :)

It's my birthday tomorrow... Someone buy me this...

Stop going to the movies so much and buying video cameras and shit and you could probably afford it :)

P.S. Good taste :)

Hey hey got a progress pic , still a long way to go :( but at least its gettin there.

very very nice :) good things take time

i think some ball cupping is in order...

Thanks for the ride bitch :)

i have had no car for the last couple of days.. my fuel tank was all corroded inside to a point that micro-pieces of rust where being primed into the pump and ended up blocking it..

to get the car back o the road i need a new fuel tank and to clean my pump..

I also decided to get some new parts for it, needa beat some rbs :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...