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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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going to have a look at a 31 on monday after Martins hot tip. Apparently it needs a new left wing, front bar and grille, headlights and a cat. He says hes not selling his rims with it so I'll have to find some stockos if he can't find any.

Anybody got a car trailer or know how much it would cost to get a car trailered from Church Hill to Jimboomba?

hey everyone, just finished working on the car today - 7:30 till 6:45 and i still havnt had lunch yet, so f**k :) the people who give me grief about when my cars gonna be done.

pics:

P9120001.jpg

going to have a look at a 31 on monday after Martins hot tip. Apparently it needs a new left wing, front bar and grille, headlights and a cat. He says hes not selling his rims with it so I'll have to find some stockos if he can't find any.

Anybody got a car trailer or know how much it would cost to get a car trailered from Church Hill to Jimboomba?

hey man, sounds good.

i can do u a deal on 4 rims with the 20 setup :) inc tires. i towed my car home from nsw, cost me a deposit off 200bux at kenards but 24hr hire was 120bux in the end, was a good trailer and very nice to tow with, dont bother with servo trailers. otherwise ring up a tow company and ask em how much per km.

going to have a look at a 31 on monday after Martins hot tip. Apparently it needs a new left wing, front bar and grille, headlights and a cat. He says hes not selling his rims with it so I'll have to find some stockos if he can't find any.

Anybody got a car trailer or know how much it would cost to get a car trailered from Church Hill to Jimboomba?

dude i have 4 17" chromies you can have

even some random mismatched tyres to throw on

Edited by Smity42

i'll raise you martin and put up for offer my fully sick 18'' chromes... lol

yeah josh we are still on. seeya laterr

Edited by 32_Dave
lol makes me appreciate how awesome my parents are lol. Do whatever I want lol most of the time Dad wants to help. Offered to get another shed when I said I wanted a track car lol.

Can he build me a shed?? I need another one.

I just don't ask :)

I just tell now. It works better in the long run.

so car is running like a dream..

cbf putting the oil cooler on.. :)

handles like its on super rails now..

:nyaanyaa:

but they f**ked the wheel allignment today

guess time to book it on monday..

:) ill destroy you guido :)

You better!!!

going to have a look at a 31 on monday after Martins hot tip. Apparently it needs a new left wing, front bar and grille, headlights and a cat. He says hes not selling his rims with it so I'll have to find some stockos if he can't find any.

Anybody got a car trailer or know how much it would cost to get a car trailered from Church Hill to Jimboomba?

Why do want a 31?

P.S. Lakeside is a f**king awesome track

Yes, I can't wait to have a hack at it.

Can he build me a shed?? I need another one.

I just tell now. It works better in the long run.

You better!!!

Why do want a 31?

Yes, I can't wait to have a hack at it.

drift pig :bunny:

im heading to the gap tonight lol :bunny:

and josh i <3 your piggy lexus

post the pics where you got owned by the speed bump

LXU55-NewPaint001-1.jpg

LXU55-NewPaint003-1.jpg

LXU55001.jpg

LXU55-NewPaint002-1.jpg

I used to roll gutted haha

SoundGear004.jpg

LXU55Lips031.jpg

LXU55Lips033.jpg

LXU55Lips032.jpg

LXU55Lips023.jpg

Belly up at SAU dyno day; there are vids on here of the dyno runners using jacks to get the stupid thing back out of the work shop haha

LXU55Demolition.jpg

The fuel pump works dave, but when the T88 comes on boost around a corner the clown of a car surge's, still more sorting out. Going to throw on that one way valve (tech threads on here seem to think they shit out from time to time).

Might go buy wire and go nuts with earting the pump better too; saw a few tech threads re that as well.

The fuel pump works dave, but when the T88 comes on boost around a corner the clown of a car surge's, still more sorting out. Going to throw on that one way valve (tech threads on here seem to think they shit out from time to time).

Might go buy wire and go nuts with earting the pump better too; saw a few tech threads re that as well.

what your missing out on?

th_P9130001.jpg

th_P9130002.jpg

close up of the filler primer, gona be sexiii !!

th_P9130007.jpg

what your missing out on?

th_P9130001.jpg

th_P9130002.jpg

close up of the filler primer, gona be sexiii !!

th_P9130007.jpg

Id rather be sanding and knocking back rough spots than chasing ghost elec problems!! Seems to have fuel, but almost like an elec cut/short. Oh the joys of dionogistic work.

Time to reset the ecu... again

Let run in the shed for 15-20mins after replacing little valve, all was seeming to be ok; then BAM rarp rarp rap rough as guts and stall.

Hard to start; started left run for a bit and it seemed fine. This car is the devil, I wish not to test drive it.. just yet haha

Let run in the shed for 15-20mins after replacing little valve, all was seeming to be ok; then BAM rarp rarp rap rough as guts and stall.

Hard to start; started left run for a bit and it seemed fine. This car is the devil, I wish not to test drive it.. just yet haha

your still missing out... needs sanding fix your shit !!! lol

th_P9130001-1.jpg

th_P9130002-1.jpg

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  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
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