Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Have stock dump, front pipe and cat. Just need stock cat back now

I have a not-stock cat back for a HR31 if it helps :)

don't worry your all on the list.

Can I be first? I hate sloppy seconds :nyaanyaa:

beers for anyone who wants to chuck my boost gauge in :nyaanyaa:

how sexy are they :)

mine is in and running like a champion - no real point or need atm, i just sit in my garage in my car and make flutter noises hahahah

I think Collin should kill the next person that talks about his sister :) . . . starting from now :P

Well that's me i'm dead

beers for anyone who wants to chuck my boost gauge in :P

I can chuck it in for you.. Might not work though. :nyaanyaa:

how sexy are they :nyaanyaa:

mine is in and running like a champion - no real point or need atm, i just sit in my garage in my car and make flutter noises hahahah

havent got it yet, waiting to hear from dave to go pick it up..

is it an easy install?

havent got it yet, waiting to hear from dave to go pick it up..

is it an easy install?

dave helped me quite a bit as i am retarded with electrics - and in general,

but yeeh didnt seem too bad - the problems happen when you take off the dash to connect to power and you discover that every wire behind it has been hacked to shit and has just been tapped back together

so fixing all that up (soldering/heat shrinking/zip ties/ etc) took ages

my 32s wiring was f**ked as well, hopefully with your 33, and it being newer means the wiring is in good nick :nyaanyaa:

dave helped me quite a bit as i am retarded with electrics - and in general,

but yeeh didnt seem too bad - the problems happen when you take off the dash to connect to power and you discover that every wire behind it has been hacked to shit and has just been tapped back together

so fixing all that up (soldering/heat shrinking/zip ties/ etc) took ages

my 32s wiring was f**ked as well, hopefully with your 33, and it being newer means the wiring is in good nick :P

I can be Dave's apprentice. Hahaha I'm pretty good with soldering etc back in uni too. :) Gimme a shout if you guys need a hand again. Dont mind looking at the Legendary Dave at work :nyaanyaa:

I can be Dave's apprentice. Hahaha I'm pretty good with soldering etc back in uni too. :) Gimme a shout if you guys need a hand again. Dont mind looking at the Legendary Dave at work :nyaanyaa:

did i mention he re-wired my whole dash/alarm/headunit/turbotimer? hahahha

ps i gota show you guys a pic of my burn on my finger - i (somehow) put my hand on the soldering iron when it was at 450degrees! so 1 of my fingers is messed!

pics tonight!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...