Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

sorry might have not been clear, i just mean the corner lights, my mate bought a hid kit but he kept the corner lights stock, and it looked weird since he had white bulbs for the headlights while the corner bulb was still yellow, so thats what i mean, here you go have a look at this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...;hl=r33+GTR+HID

look at damits post youl know what i mean.

well... personally I would have thought that would be common sense to do the parkers at the same time... but you kept saying "Bright white" as though it was the latest bling fashion or something. I thought you were planning on doing something stupid like blue headlights and white parkers.

LOL , alrite well once i get the car back il go and check out supercheap auto then, also planing on geting windows tinted, just checked out some samples and the darkest legal tint isnt dark at all lol

sif tint..

u need to make bishes watch u at red lights touchin ya junk while ur making eye contact with them..

eg - 610x-222.jpg

Is that charlieeeee murphy....? Or eddie?

Its funkymonkey

err Charlie murphy

:banana:

Hi! skins!! missed u long time brother!

when are we meeting up for more harassment and phantom hands!

Edited by Redsuns88
Its funkymonkey

err Charlie murphy

:blush:

Hi! skins!! missed u long time brother!

when are we meeting up for more harassment and phantom hands!

Name a time and place and im not there

nah... thursday ? I'm on a pinky promise to john :)

pinky promises sound like

dolphin%20unicorn.jpg

make sure u wear your fairy outfit

lol nah ill be there! :blush:

sweet. be good to see ya.

cant wear it, its in the dry cleaners :)

@adam:

You can't put HIDs in the parkers, you want LEDs for them to get the same colour tone (ie white).

Buy full HID kit I assume you mean both high and low beam? This will require two kits, as each kit does 2 bulbs (one per side). You'll struggle to even get two crappy ebay ones for $150.

@adam:

You can't put HIDs in the parkers, you want LEDs for them to get the same colour tone (ie white).

Buy full HID kit I assume you mean both high and low beam? This will require two kits, as each kit does 2 bulbs (one per side). You'll struggle to even get two crappy ebay ones for $150.

hmmm i c, so how much do reckon it would be for the full set? yes im lookin for both high and low beam, i dont mind paying more but i wana buy local somewhere not from ebay unless its an australian store online like justjap etc,

alrite mate, thanks for the help, im gona get the car tinted first, then i might follow the tutorials and clean the headlights up and buy the HID kits needed , the series 3 headlights would be the easier solution but since they retail around 2 grand a set, cant justify that kind of cash, have been lookin around for second hand ones to pop up for quiet a bit, no luck so far,

but thanks anyway,

I good set will be a few hundred PER KIT.

I'm not sure how much the cheap ones go for locally - I got mine ebay styles :blush:

ebay styles are the way to go if you want hids

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...