Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

sorry might have not been clear, i just mean the corner lights, my mate bought a hid kit but he kept the corner lights stock, and it looked weird since he had white bulbs for the headlights while the corner bulb was still yellow, so thats what i mean, here you go have a look at this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...;hl=r33+GTR+HID

look at damits post youl know what i mean.

well... personally I would have thought that would be common sense to do the parkers at the same time... but you kept saying "Bright white" as though it was the latest bling fashion or something. I thought you were planning on doing something stupid like blue headlights and white parkers.

LOL , alrite well once i get the car back il go and check out supercheap auto then, also planing on geting windows tinted, just checked out some samples and the darkest legal tint isnt dark at all lol

sif tint..

u need to make bishes watch u at red lights touchin ya junk while ur making eye contact with them..

eg - 610x-222.jpg

Is that charlieeeee murphy....? Or eddie?

Its funkymonkey

err Charlie murphy

:banana:

Hi! skins!! missed u long time brother!

when are we meeting up for more harassment and phantom hands!

Edited by Redsuns88
Its funkymonkey

err Charlie murphy

:blush:

Hi! skins!! missed u long time brother!

when are we meeting up for more harassment and phantom hands!

Name a time and place and im not there

nah... thursday ? I'm on a pinky promise to john :)

pinky promises sound like

dolphin%20unicorn.jpg

make sure u wear your fairy outfit

lol nah ill be there! :blush:

sweet. be good to see ya.

cant wear it, its in the dry cleaners :)

@adam:

You can't put HIDs in the parkers, you want LEDs for them to get the same colour tone (ie white).

Buy full HID kit I assume you mean both high and low beam? This will require two kits, as each kit does 2 bulbs (one per side). You'll struggle to even get two crappy ebay ones for $150.

@adam:

You can't put HIDs in the parkers, you want LEDs for them to get the same colour tone (ie white).

Buy full HID kit I assume you mean both high and low beam? This will require two kits, as each kit does 2 bulbs (one per side). You'll struggle to even get two crappy ebay ones for $150.

hmmm i c, so how much do reckon it would be for the full set? yes im lookin for both high and low beam, i dont mind paying more but i wana buy local somewhere not from ebay unless its an australian store online like justjap etc,

alrite mate, thanks for the help, im gona get the car tinted first, then i might follow the tutorials and clean the headlights up and buy the HID kits needed , the series 3 headlights would be the easier solution but since they retail around 2 grand a set, cant justify that kind of cash, have been lookin around for second hand ones to pop up for quiet a bit, no luck so far,

but thanks anyway,

I good set will be a few hundred PER KIT.

I'm not sure how much the cheap ones go for locally - I got mine ebay styles :blush:

ebay styles are the way to go if you want hids

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...