Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Mangs

Yesterday someone had ( i assume ) stolen some silicon tubes and guns from some workers ute and proceeded to fill all the parked cars door handles and locks with silicon. Lucky mine was in the garage.

Mangs

Yesterday someone had ( i assume ) stolen some silicon tubes and guns from some workers ute and proceeded to fill all the parked cars door handles and locks with silicon. Lucky mine was in the garage.

What is it with you and silicone? I'm starting to think you're doing a Tyler Durden... You're sleep walking and being the silicone bandit!

ha ha i just did my bmi, i would need to be 81kg to be 'healhy'....when i was playing rugby seriously i weighed 90kg and was 8% body fat. I cant actually get anywhere near being 80 with out being anorexic, BMI is the biggest joke ever

To weigh that much i would need to shit out my skeleton!

90 kg is pretty much the lightest i will ever be, if you go by body fat percentage 8% is too little so if i got back to 90kg i would be about 8% fat again so i would hate to see what it would be if i ever made 80kg! Right now i am in the healthy range (just) for body fat percentage but almost obese by BMI

Surprisingly no shitting from this food poisoning... Pure puking and like 7 or 8 times (lost count) and no food for 2days.

Maybe everyone else got heavier bones?

Oh and Yaface, that GTR looks ok the price is good and the R34 engine is a minor upgrade....but check the engine number in fast it way be any old RB26 just with R34 cam covers, also that colour sucks but thats a personal opinion and none of the standard R32 GTR colours are that interesting

ha ha i just did my bmi, i would need to be 81kg to be 'healhy'....when i was playing rugby seriously i weighed 90kg and was 8% body fat. I cant actually get anywhere near being 80 with out being anorexic, BMI is the biggest joke ever

Yes it is. I have to be under 80 to get into the 'healthy' range, which is just BS.

I think I fall into 'fat bastard' territory too :)

Don't we all?

To weigh that much i would need to shit out my skeleton!

90 kg is pretty much the lightest i will ever be, if you go by body fat percentage 8% is too little so if i got back to 90kg i would be about 8% fat again so i would hate to see what it would be if i ever made 80kg! Right now i am in the healthy range (just) for body fat percentage but almost obese by BMI

How do you figure out your body fat %?

UPDATE: standard clutch is nearly toasted on the GTR, so ordering a new NPC clutch with Dan, i budgeted for s**t to happen but not s**t this expensive lol, oh the wonders of the skyline/GTR ownership, well hopefully shouldnt have to replace in quite a while, and im suprised standard one lasted about 80000Ks lol especially since i learnt driving manual in the GTR haha, if i had a car a few more days the clutch would have started slipping about 5mm of meat left on it, big thanks to Dan for going over the car and noticing it,

:'(

We have scales at home that send electrical current i think up your body and it measures the resistance, giving you a fat free mass %, water mass % and fat %. there is some old school way involving pinch tests but finding a electrinic scale is easier lol

We have scales at home that send electrical current i think up your body and it measures the resistance, giving you a fat free mass %, water mass % and fat %. there is some old school way involving pinch tests but finding a electrinic scale is easier lol

does it hurt? :)

*hits up ebay

*sigh* Yeah... I guess so. Must be all the KFC :P

I blame colin, he made me double my nugget intake!

Adam get one like this...its awesome, and from NPC it did cost over $2000 though :) but that said it drives nicely on the street and i dont have to worry about launching as its the one Mark Jacobson uses!

post-21318-1262825255_thumb.jpg

Martin, no pain at all! It might not even be electrical current but you do have to shand on metal plates with no shoes on! we got ours from the good guys for like $100

Adam get one like this...its awesome, and from NPC it did cost over $2000 though :) but that said it drives nicely on the street and i dont have to worry about launching as its the one Mark Jacobson uses!

hey bro, i would love to get the nismo twin plate, heard awesome things about them, but the sad truth is i have now spent nearly 7 grand on the car and thats not including the clutch, it hurts me because all i needed to spend was about 3 or max 4 grand, the rest was all things i wanted not things i needed, Dan recommended the heavy duty clutch from NPC, the one that replaces the stock clutch, he said it would be strong enough for upto 280awkw,i dont know if it will be able to handle launches etc

and im calling it quits for now, once this stuff is done, all im gona do is service it, ive spent way too much money on things that werent needed and that money could have been spent elsewhere,

-FML-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...