Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Adam you won't regret the NPC man... I've got one in the car atm, changed the stock one cos it seemed like a logical thing to do (spigot was rooted but the stock clutch was near new). Clutch is lighter than stock and is even easier to drive

hey john, did u get a new flywheel or did you machine the current one? im wondering if its worth it to get a new flywheel, if it isnt needed then i dont wana spend the money, and how much stronger would the say the clutch is compared to standard? can it handle some abuse or is it like standard, i.e do a couple of normal launches and its toasted?

i know the clutch toasting process of my clutch now was speeded up by me riding it alot, coz it was was so easy to ride and i was learning to get used to manual on it, lots of steep slopes didnt help either.

John: That Hamish guy just posted on his for sale thread. Did he reply you? Also, I thought Michael's gonna sell his 32gtr? Thats gunmetal too.

Nope, haven't heard nudda.... Yeh Michael was 'thinking' about it. Not sure of the condition of his car though...looks pretty neat and tid though.

I love fighting about personal preference of products, its what keeps car forums going really! lol

f**k apexi and blitz....K&N Pod filters FTW ......(runs and hides)

Does it come with GABNR plates?

If yes, keen :)

Pahahaha yeh gabnr plates will be a must with that car....dirty gabnr

i would have my foot 1/4 way down on the clutch while going up the slopes so that the car wouldnt shudder and stall LOL, good old leanring manual days, i dont do that anymore but in the beginning it was pretty much inexperience and i was scared that the car would stall or roll back or something, u get what i mean ?

me john? or other john?

I'm not dealing with anyone called hamish... :huh:

Damn us and our highly common name...could be worse I spose. We could be called mohammed...

hey john, did u get a new flywheel or did you machine the current one? im wondering if its worth it to get a new flywheel, if it isnt needed then i dont wana spend the money, and how much stronger would the say the clutch is compared to standard? can it handle some abuse or is it like standard, i.e do a couple of normal launches and its toasted?

i know the clutch toasting process of my clutch now was speeded up by me riding it alot, coz it was was so easy to ride and i was learning to get used to manual on it, lots of steep slopes didnt help either.

LOL! Can't believe you learnt how to drive in a 33 gtr....you asshole, lol. Nah Dan took care of it for us. No machining needed and kept the stock flywheel. Getting a lightened one can change the way your car revs, most often for the better though. Standard clutch on a 33 will handle around 210rwkws.... the npc one I have in there has been known to handle 300kws atws and the clutch still holding the power strong... You upgrade your clutch so it can handle more power and more abuse, but I wouldn't suggest you abuse it...

I'll wear the frilly ones just in case :bunny:

Ooohh....you're making my pants come alive :P

hey john, did u get a new flywheel or did you machine the current one? im wondering if its worth it to get a new flywheel, if it isnt needed then i dont wana spend the money, and how much stronger would the say the clutch is compared to standard? can it handle some abuse or is it like standard, i.e do a couple of normal launches and its toasted?

A stock clutch will handle MANY MANY MANY 'normal' launches. Riding them is what kills them, and that will kill any clutch.

Beefier up clutches can just handle more power before they start slipping. You still need to be able to drive.

i know the clutch toasting process of my clutch now was speeded up by me riding it alot, coz it was was so easy to ride and i was learning to get used to manual on it, lots of steep slopes didnt help either.

Ahhh, well that explains it. Maybe drive properly once you've spent all that money on a new clutch?

I'll wear the frilly ones just in case :bunny:

<3 :P

f**k apexi and blitz....K&N Pod filters FTW ......(runs and hides)

Oh this means WAR! Blitz are sh*t for sure, but apexi? cmon, sh*ts all over nasty oiled K&N pods that kill AFMs.

Pahahaha yeh gabnr plates will be a must with that car....dirty gabnr

You know it

....explain? :huh:

Can't drive? Edit: Couldn't drive? Can now?

Edited by Smity42
i would have my foot 1/4 way down on the clutch while going up the slopes so that the car wouldnt shudder and stall LOL, good old leanring manual days, i dont do that anymore but in the beginning it was pretty much inexperience and i was scared that the car would stall or roll back or something, u get what i mean ?

Yeah sorry man, you're gonna need to learn.

i would have my foot 1/4 way down on the clutch while going up the slopes so that the car wouldnt shudder and stall LOL, good old leanring manual days, i dont do that anymore but in the beginning it was pretty much inexperience and i was scared that the car would stall or roll back or something, u get what i mean ?

God damn, who TAUGHT you to drive?

Change gear son!

haha yeh it was fun, the day when i picked up the car from GTAuto after RWC and inspection was the most fun, it was lke 530 lots of traffic everythin goin home from work etc, that was the hardest drive ive ever had in my life, i kept on praying and i kept on telling myself dont crash, reminding msyelf of the rules i had learnt, keep safe distance etc etc,

it was hard for me to make the move from driving mostly Auto Land Cruisers in qatar that were left hand drive to a manual GTR that was right hand drive, quite confusing in the begining, and the car i learnt driving on at the driving school in qatar was a shitty corolla that was abused so badly by learners that the clutch was lke in half depressed position when disengaged, and the car would shift to 5 instead on 3 unless you really looked at the knob and pushed it hard enough into 3, fun times.

Oh this means WAR! Blitz are sh*t for sure, but apexi? cmon, sh*ts all over nasty oiled K&N pods that kill AFMs.

Nahuhh. K&N!!!! Lol, in all honesty the apexi ones are good.... I use the K&N ones with the extreme top and inverted shape.... Similar design to the apexi but half the price. Blitz are the ones that f**k your car up :P

Edited by yaface
Oh this means WAR! Blitz are sh*t for sure, but apexi? cmon, sh*ts all over nasty oiled K&N pods that kill AFMs.

Can I add more fuel to this fire and say AFM's are FTL ?

whats wrong with blitz filters? i have a mines induction kit with blitz sus air cleaner filters or something, cant tell exactly coz all the papers and instructions for them are in japanese, i do find though that they make very little induction noise compared to apexi ones , you can really hear the induction with apexi filters, i was gona get them changed but theyr washable so just asked Dan to clean them up for me.

20yr old technology ftmfl :P If I could afford it I'd piss it off all together...

I'd like to read something on a comparison though. I was told by Gavin, Matt and Mark (other than Mark recommending vipec) that running afm would have better fuel economy and easier to tune (comparison between pfc and dejetro).

Thats not going to add much fuel, I agree with you :bunny:

BUT, i'd still run an apexi even without an AFM :huh:

Oh mangz thats no fun then . . . hehe

20yr old technology ftmfl :P If I could afford it I'd piss it off all together...

You not got an ECU yet ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...