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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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i love the bov blocker! and i love johns attitude about not following brands :)

imo auto gauge are sweet :ninja: there are actually a number of ppl on NS shifting to auto gauge/saber as the apparently the defi sensors are weak as piss... if you dont want auto gauge/saber, there are other alternatives to defis - such as greddy, apexi, blitz

"zomg my car is jdm as f**k yo, i got a bride, uras kit, defis, te37s, tomei cams, HKS fmic, MU brakes n rotors, MOTEC ECU, blah, blah..."

"dude, sounds awesome! how does she go around the track?"

"err the track? nah man i havnt taken her to the track"

"zomg fail"

WHATS UP WITH YOU GUYS?!

I wouldn't go that far... I am a complete Sparco whore :) ... I just can't afford their shit :ninja:

oh yeh sparco is amazing - you'll have to take a seat in the 180 next time man, and sit in pure Sparco loveliness,

i meant to come across that you arent all "i wont put anything in my car that isnt top of the line japanese either defi/tomei/nismo etc"

man this rain is nuuuts

i meant to come across that you arent all "i wont put anything in my car that isnt top of the line japanese either defi/tomei/nismo etc"

I have no problem with that. I'm like that with my guitars and musical equipment, so I know the mind set.

I just figure if I like the cheap one's functionality/looks more and it'll do the same job, and I'll get the same life to cost ratio as the expensive one, then I'll get it. If I was going to build one of those two-jay-zee-no-shit-decimate-all-with-overnight-parts-from-ja-pan I'd totally be throwing my wallet at it though. Just depends on what you want out of it I think. For now I just want the dirty slut to keep running :)

Edited by Isola
whats the drama with her atmm? :)

No dramas now (and I want it to stay that way) except for badly needing tyres, and my AC unit has shat itself again. Going to take it back to the rip off merchant electrician that 'fixed' it last time and get him to have another go. It just blows hot air at me... not a cool time of year for it hahaha

No dramas now (and I want it to stay that way) except for badly needing tyres, and my AC unit has shat itself again. Going to take it back to the rip off merchant electrician that 'fixed' it last time and get him to have another go. It just blows hot air at me... not a cool time of year for it hahaha

possibly a stupid question, but there is a plug on the 32 next to the ciggie lighter (behind the plastic - u gota take the front plastic out

) - i'd check that its plugged in first, mine once fell out and i had the same problem

i cant remember what the plug is called but yeh - if its unplugged on cool air for some reason :|

possibly a stupid question, but there is a plug on the 32 next to the ciggie lighter (behind the plastic - u gota take the front plastic out

) - i'd check that its plugged in first, mine once fell out and i had the same problem

i cant remember what the plug is called but yeh - if its unplugged on cool air for some reason :|

+1 my 32 did the same thing, its the interior temp sensor, when faulty or un plugged the sensor reads -32 degrees so it blows hot air to save your life!

on the center panel you will see the little slots behind that there will be a sensor with a plug on it and a bendy hose, both of thse need to be attached for it to work, the hose is a flamin mongrel because it is only just long enough to reach the back of the sensor when the console is in place, if you need a hand with it let me know, im very familiar with having to deal with this issue lol

Blanking off the bov, or even adding a ATMO one will no longer make the system "recirc", thus create idle drop and even stalling - my old R32 had it blanked off thus no return pipe into the intake where the AFM could read what was going on.

remove one link in the system = drama.

You can remove and block them/run ATMO's when you have a chipped ECU, thus telling the AFM what to do

possibly a stupid question, but there is a plug on the 32 next to the ciggie lighter (behind the plastic - u gota take the front plastic out

) - i'd check that its plugged in first, mine once fell out and i had the same problem

i cant remember what the plug is called but yeh - if its unplugged on cool air for some reason :|

+1 my 32 did the same thing, its the interior temp sensor, when faulty or un plugged the sensor reads -32 degrees so it blows hot air to save your life!

on the center panel you will see the little slots behind that there will be a sensor with a plug on it and a bendy hose, both of thse need to be attached for it to work, the hose is a flamin mongrel because it is only just long enough to reach the back of the sensor when the console is in place, if you need a hand with it let me know, im very familiar with having to deal with this issue lol

Thanks guys! I'll go out and check that right now :ninja:

And - I think this is the boost gauge that I'm gonna get :)

Joshie i dont mean to rain on you parade, because you know i think you are sexy, but to my understanding a block off should not cause running troubles. The ecu shits its self when air the afm measured goes missing somewhere between the afm and combustion, ie a leak or indeed a atmo bov dumping the air out if the system, thus causing bad mixtures. I would say the most likely culprit of your issue was a poorly sealing blanking plate or some other leak rather than lack of BOV.

Joshie i dont mean to rain on you parade, because you know i think you are sexy, but to my understanding a block off should not cause running troubles. The ecu shits its self when air the afm measured goes missing somewhere between the afm and combustion, ie a leak or indeed a atmo bov dumping the air out if the system, thus causing bad mixtures. I would say the most likely culprit of your issue was a poorly sealing blanking plate or some other leak rather than lack of BOV.

Even Dan told me what I said...

As soon as I put a return BOV on that recirc'd back into the intake and into the AFM, it could read right, no longer idle drop or stalling.

there is a billion threads on here about it.

I even agree with 31nismoide with it, lol.

Ok, the hose was disconnect!!

Not sure how it popped itself off, but it did. Might cable tie that little sucker. Now, before I go screwing it all back in... what's this plug? It was disconnect too!

post-64832-1267577866_thumb.jpg

tristan is king!

not sure what the plugs are for mate - i just know they have something to do with the temp of your air con

maybe boooooonta can shed some light?

+1 my 32 did the same thing, its the interior temp sensor, when faulty or un plugged the sensor reads -32 degrees so it blows hot air to save your life!

^^ no shit! -32 hey lolzz

And - I think this is the boost gauge that I'm gonna get :ninja:

Much sexier :)

Joshie i dont mean to rain on you parade, because you know i think you are sexy, but to my understanding a block off should not cause running troubles. The ecu shits its self when air the afm measured goes missing somewhere between the afm and combustion, ie a leak or indeed a atmo bov dumping the air out if the system, thus causing bad mixtures. I would say the most likely culprit of your issue was a poorly sealing blanking plate or some other leak rather than lack of BOV.

Agreed. Atmo bov will definitely cause issues. Blanking wouldn't. A non-blanked BOV would be closed at idle anyway. Think about it.

Even Dan told me what I said...

As soon as I put a return BOV on that recirc'd back into the intake and into the AFM, it could read right, no longer idle drop or stalling.

there is a billion threads on here about it.

I even agree with 31nismoide with it, lol.

Andy and I are right. You are all wrong. suggad1ck. :cool:

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