Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

i love the bov blocker! and i love johns attitude about not following brands :)

imo auto gauge are sweet :ninja: there are actually a number of ppl on NS shifting to auto gauge/saber as the apparently the defi sensors are weak as piss... if you dont want auto gauge/saber, there are other alternatives to defis - such as greddy, apexi, blitz

"zomg my car is jdm as f**k yo, i got a bride, uras kit, defis, te37s, tomei cams, HKS fmic, MU brakes n rotors, MOTEC ECU, blah, blah..."

"dude, sounds awesome! how does she go around the track?"

"err the track? nah man i havnt taken her to the track"

"zomg fail"

WHATS UP WITH YOU GUYS?!

I wouldn't go that far... I am a complete Sparco whore :) ... I just can't afford their shit :ninja:

oh yeh sparco is amazing - you'll have to take a seat in the 180 next time man, and sit in pure Sparco loveliness,

i meant to come across that you arent all "i wont put anything in my car that isnt top of the line japanese either defi/tomei/nismo etc"

man this rain is nuuuts

i meant to come across that you arent all "i wont put anything in my car that isnt top of the line japanese either defi/tomei/nismo etc"

I have no problem with that. I'm like that with my guitars and musical equipment, so I know the mind set.

I just figure if I like the cheap one's functionality/looks more and it'll do the same job, and I'll get the same life to cost ratio as the expensive one, then I'll get it. If I was going to build one of those two-jay-zee-no-shit-decimate-all-with-overnight-parts-from-ja-pan I'd totally be throwing my wallet at it though. Just depends on what you want out of it I think. For now I just want the dirty slut to keep running :)

Edited by Isola
whats the drama with her atmm? :)

No dramas now (and I want it to stay that way) except for badly needing tyres, and my AC unit has shat itself again. Going to take it back to the rip off merchant electrician that 'fixed' it last time and get him to have another go. It just blows hot air at me... not a cool time of year for it hahaha

No dramas now (and I want it to stay that way) except for badly needing tyres, and my AC unit has shat itself again. Going to take it back to the rip off merchant electrician that 'fixed' it last time and get him to have another go. It just blows hot air at me... not a cool time of year for it hahaha

possibly a stupid question, but there is a plug on the 32 next to the ciggie lighter (behind the plastic - u gota take the front plastic out

) - i'd check that its plugged in first, mine once fell out and i had the same problem

i cant remember what the plug is called but yeh - if its unplugged on cool air for some reason :|

possibly a stupid question, but there is a plug on the 32 next to the ciggie lighter (behind the plastic - u gota take the front plastic out

) - i'd check that its plugged in first, mine once fell out and i had the same problem

i cant remember what the plug is called but yeh - if its unplugged on cool air for some reason :|

+1 my 32 did the same thing, its the interior temp sensor, when faulty or un plugged the sensor reads -32 degrees so it blows hot air to save your life!

on the center panel you will see the little slots behind that there will be a sensor with a plug on it and a bendy hose, both of thse need to be attached for it to work, the hose is a flamin mongrel because it is only just long enough to reach the back of the sensor when the console is in place, if you need a hand with it let me know, im very familiar with having to deal with this issue lol

Blanking off the bov, or even adding a ATMO one will no longer make the system "recirc", thus create idle drop and even stalling - my old R32 had it blanked off thus no return pipe into the intake where the AFM could read what was going on.

remove one link in the system = drama.

You can remove and block them/run ATMO's when you have a chipped ECU, thus telling the AFM what to do

possibly a stupid question, but there is a plug on the 32 next to the ciggie lighter (behind the plastic - u gota take the front plastic out

) - i'd check that its plugged in first, mine once fell out and i had the same problem

i cant remember what the plug is called but yeh - if its unplugged on cool air for some reason :|

+1 my 32 did the same thing, its the interior temp sensor, when faulty or un plugged the sensor reads -32 degrees so it blows hot air to save your life!

on the center panel you will see the little slots behind that there will be a sensor with a plug on it and a bendy hose, both of thse need to be attached for it to work, the hose is a flamin mongrel because it is only just long enough to reach the back of the sensor when the console is in place, if you need a hand with it let me know, im very familiar with having to deal with this issue lol

Thanks guys! I'll go out and check that right now :ninja:

And - I think this is the boost gauge that I'm gonna get :)

Joshie i dont mean to rain on you parade, because you know i think you are sexy, but to my understanding a block off should not cause running troubles. The ecu shits its self when air the afm measured goes missing somewhere between the afm and combustion, ie a leak or indeed a atmo bov dumping the air out if the system, thus causing bad mixtures. I would say the most likely culprit of your issue was a poorly sealing blanking plate or some other leak rather than lack of BOV.

Joshie i dont mean to rain on you parade, because you know i think you are sexy, but to my understanding a block off should not cause running troubles. The ecu shits its self when air the afm measured goes missing somewhere between the afm and combustion, ie a leak or indeed a atmo bov dumping the air out if the system, thus causing bad mixtures. I would say the most likely culprit of your issue was a poorly sealing blanking plate or some other leak rather than lack of BOV.

Even Dan told me what I said...

As soon as I put a return BOV on that recirc'd back into the intake and into the AFM, it could read right, no longer idle drop or stalling.

there is a billion threads on here about it.

I even agree with 31nismoide with it, lol.

Ok, the hose was disconnect!!

Not sure how it popped itself off, but it did. Might cable tie that little sucker. Now, before I go screwing it all back in... what's this plug? It was disconnect too!

post-64832-1267577866_thumb.jpg

tristan is king!

not sure what the plugs are for mate - i just know they have something to do with the temp of your air con

maybe boooooonta can shed some light?

+1 my 32 did the same thing, its the interior temp sensor, when faulty or un plugged the sensor reads -32 degrees so it blows hot air to save your life!

^^ no shit! -32 hey lolzz

And - I think this is the boost gauge that I'm gonna get :ninja:

Much sexier :)

Joshie i dont mean to rain on you parade, because you know i think you are sexy, but to my understanding a block off should not cause running troubles. The ecu shits its self when air the afm measured goes missing somewhere between the afm and combustion, ie a leak or indeed a atmo bov dumping the air out if the system, thus causing bad mixtures. I would say the most likely culprit of your issue was a poorly sealing blanking plate or some other leak rather than lack of BOV.

Agreed. Atmo bov will definitely cause issues. Blanking wouldn't. A non-blanked BOV would be closed at idle anyway. Think about it.

Even Dan told me what I said...

As soon as I put a return BOV on that recirc'd back into the intake and into the AFM, it could read right, no longer idle drop or stalling.

there is a billion threads on here about it.

I even agree with 31nismoide with it, lol.

Andy and I are right. You are all wrong. suggad1ck. :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...