Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

*facepalm

i was giving you big love there bro and u just killed me

are you going to strip the car and get all gtst running parts?

awd car = awd motor, hence rb26

like im sure it is possible to do it with a gtsFO - but i mean wouldnt it be easier to sell the FO and get a cheap gtst and do the conversion, or buy one with the conversion already done?

I have an AWD motor and gearbox already, so I use that, plus new engine = no problem.

And where are you finding cheaper RB26s than 25s and VG30s?

*facepalm

i was giving you big love there bro and u just killed me

are you going to strip the car and get all gtst running parts?

awd car = awd motor, hence rb26

like im sure it is possible to do it with a gtsFO - but i mean wouldnt it be easier to sell the FO and get a cheap gtst and do the conversion, or buy one with the conversion already done?

Only thing thats different is the sump isnt it?

I still want an evo 6 TME, most days i cry myself to sleep about getting the GTR instead

I kind of know what you mean. I love the Evo 6s and it is really close between them for me. If my car had died I would be feeling the same. But I've been lucky with mine :)

the stagea RB25 fits easily in a GTSfo

Problem solvered?

yeh 6s have always been my fav too! i wanted an evo 6, then wanted a gtir, then r32 lol

still want a GTiR - maybe when i finish uni, itll be a rad little car - stockish motor and and cronic suspension

lol I went evo, wrx, gtir, silvia then decided f**k this 4 cyl bullshit and looked at v8s and then thought f**k this domestic car shit and bought the gtr lol.Sometimes I regret selling my laser in the first place lol. Would of made uni and living out of home if I hadnt of spent so much money on the car :P But then I go for a drive and wonder wtf I was thinking lol. But now I can't drive so I just sit here and think stupid shit lol.

I have an AWD motor and gearbox already, so I use that, plus new engine = no problem.

And where are you finding cheaper RB26s than 25s and VG30s?

the vg30 will prolly cost lots in fabrication

the 25 though would be super easy

I have an AWD motor and gearbox already, so I use that, plus new engine = no problem.

And where are you finding cheaper RB26s than 25s and VG30s?

Cheap RB26 is an oxymoron.

the vg30 will prolly cost lots in fabrication

the 25 though would be super easy

For a minute there... I forgot you were paying for it :)

I meant if you were doing the VG30 swap. All the fab work and shit like that will go way over the cost of the motor so you may aswell spend the extra cash and get a motor thats worth all the hassle.

I kind of know what you mean. I love the Evo 6s and it is really close between them for me. If my car had died I would be feeling the same. But I've been lucky with mine :)

yeah the whole 5 hours driving time since December 2008 has been a bit of a downside

however i would probably be sick of breaking diffs in the evo by now

Only thing thats different is the sump isnt it?

And gearbox. But Dan said something my bell housing will match up with the VG box :P

i never said cheaper :)

however thats f**king rad that you sourced an awd box and motor! :P:D

true... you said cheap gtst my bad.

strangely enough, they came with my AWD car :P:)

the vg30 will prolly cost lots in fabrication

Do tell?

Rather keen on the 30, so please fill me in with anything I need to know. I'm currently in engine research mode :P

Cheap RB26 is an oxymoron.

btw this importer guy dave and i got some parts off tried to flog off an r33 gtr box and motor to us for 3800 :)

sub 100thou too!

I'd still rather break a diff than a motor though. Are they that bad with stockish power though? I thought their drivelines were fairly sturdy.

And gearbox. But Dan said something my bell housing will match up with the VG box :P

strangely enough, they came with my AWD car :):P

sounds good mate! very good!

so i take it the conversion is happening at ERD? im excited for this dude - stock turbzzz? highflow? 3071 or similar?

I meant if you were doing the VG30 swap. All the fab work and shit like that will go way over the cost of the motor so you may aswell spend the extra cash and get a motor thats worth all the hassle.

what fab work?

Dan... have you been telling me lies?! You know I'm a fragile being!! :)

And gearbox. But Dan said something my bell housing will match up with the VG box :P

true... you said cheap gtst my bad.

strangely enough, they came with my AWD car :):P

Do tell?

Rather keen on the 30, so please fill me in with anything I need to know. I'm currently in engine research mode :P

Conversions are generally expensive. When they are unorthodox. All the intake and exhaust piping will have to be made to fit, tail shaft, wiring etc. VQ > VG. How cheap are VGs anyway? I saw a VH45 on yahoo for $531AUD last night. Would of been around $1500 delivered for engine/box and ecu. I dunno how much the VQs are but they are miles better than the VG.

sounds good mate! very good!

so i take it the conversion is happening at ERD? im excited for this dude - stock turbzzz? highflow? 3071 or similar?

Conversion will be happening at Garage De' Brewer with assistance from Smitty Inc and Isola Pty Ltd

Will be a stock VG30DETT for starters with a V mount intercooler and dual HKS SSQVs hidden somewhere. (Well... that's the plan so far that Dan and I have drawn up). Unsure on other bits yet. 300hp is the target for either RB25 or VG30.

Do tell?

Rather keen on the 30, so please fill me in with anything I need to know. I'm currently in engine research mode :)

Piping engine mounts ect, and how do you graft the awd to the engine? the front diff is more or less in the sump so i imagine there would be some tricky work to be done there

I'd still rather break a diff than a motor though. Are they that bad with stockish power though? I thought their drivelines were fairly sturdy.

anything over 250awkw means broken diffs and gear boxes, and the gayest part about it is that there is no good aftermarket alternative so you just have to keep feeding it stock bits

what fab work?

Dan... have you been telling me lies?! You know I'm a fragile being!! :)

I could be wrong on how expensive it is I haven't looked at doing it. If Dan says it all fits up easy and its cheap it could be. But weird conversions never cost what people expect them too. I'd always stray to the conservative side and budget more if you are going to go that route.

just occured to me - its danB hey - he's the VG/VQ king

not ERD dan

Yeah

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...