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Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


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not a bad angle and nice line for the dipper. What speed you entering?

I will be in for tomorrow night, hopefully i can get the car back together in time and it doesn't fail on my while driving. New diff feels nice, no excessive play like the old one

kids, woo hooo

240310.jpg

Very nice, How much?

Looks good Thristian

Morning Mangs and Mangettes, I managed to get that assignment done and handed in hurray for me :( Will probably be there tonight if I decide to go to uni today lol.

sooo, i totally bought these hecktik red brake thingys that make you stop quicker there like go fast bits except the opposite

anyway there off a 300zx there 4 piston brake thingys

got discs and struts and wheels and all those sorts of bits and pieces

and obvisly my hektik bagged r31 skyline is of the australian origin

so i quickly figured out that the brake lines TOTTALLLLYYY dont fit

got a qoute for specially made braided lines for 100$ each

just wondering is there any possible way i can do the backyard style dodgy and get an adaptor of some sort until my centrelink wage comes in

I <3 R31 skyline club :(

FML when i first hurt my car there was no ready made engines that i could buy and drop in for reasonable money, now after my build is already started no less tha 4 motors of reasonable spec and price have popped up god dammit

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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