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mosquitocoils last won the day on September 29 2019

mosquitocoils had the most liked content!

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About mosquitocoils

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    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 09/10/1986

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    Brisbane, QLD

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    1996 C34 Stagea RS4 Auto AWD
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  1. My mate came around with his welder and we pulled everything off to check over and weld up if required. We just quickly pulled back some of the heatwrap and found that it had previously been welded up which is awesome! There are some cracks on the inside around the collector but none of them goes all the way through. We tried pouring a little water very carefully around the cracks and none came through the outside of the pipes so I guess based on our very scientific test that we're all good and didn't worry about having a go ourselves. I also tidied up one of the bolt holes on the T3 flange as it was burred and I couldn't get a bolt into it. Ended up using a tap/chaser my friend had it so hopefully it holds alright. Cleaned it all out then got it torqued onto the motor. Next is trying to figure out the turbo itself... after looking around for a T3 "offset spacer" for a while, I realise they don't exist... So my current plan is to just go ahead as is and leave the outlet up near the strut tower. I just have to relocate the power steering reservoir but I think I have enough room in the stock lines to get it next to the radiator. Time will tell! Also I know the MAF is no good there, this was purely to test fit my piping/filter haha. I'll eventually either run a 90 degree down into the corner of the engine bay, or what I'd prefer to do - run MAP sensor instead since the Haltech has it.
  2. No manifold welding today but hopefully in the next few days. However I did manage to snag a pretty good deal on an Optima yellow top battery to replace that cruddy tiny thing that's in there at the moment. - 750cca - 55ah Vs my current battery: - 340cca - 30ah - things are so bad I drop 0.3v instantly by turning the headlights on... and the battery voltage slowly depletes while driving So this will require a relocation to the boot which I'll start sizing up over the next days/weeks or so. I also really like the fact that the battery came with a lid... and an instruction booklet...
  3. Ah gotcha, that's a good distinction to make and one my level of knowledge/experience hasn't had the need for yet! Hopefully this stagea will be that car though so I will work towards welding a 90 degree bend on the turbo. Meant to be welding tomorrow so we'll see what happens.
  4. That's not a bad idea about welding a 90 degree bend on to the compressor outlet... Might see if my mate can help me with that later this week as well. Although I find it hard to believe that a turbo's hot output would be enough to damage/melt a silicone elbow, most cars I've owned or mates that I've worked on have had silicone couplers coming off the turbo and they've lasted forever. I'm really just curious about the direct heat from the exhaust manifold cause it's so close. That heatshield stuff looks pretty good too! Might be unnecessary if I end up with a welded compressor but would probably make a good intake shield!
  5. With christmas holidays in full swing I had a bit of time to start pulling the hotside off and see how much room I had to play with. It's nice seeing an engine this clean. The new manifold is going to get a once-over before it's all torqued down finally (cleanup and add some weld in a couple of suspicious spots, typical of a china manifold I'm told) but the purpose of this was just to test fitment. I left everything how it was when I got it and we ended up like this (which is less than ideal with the turbo output positioned up in the air): It might work... but I would like to avoid running the piping over the strut tower 😅. I also need to figure out what to do with my power steering reservoir, it's a little in the way now. So I reclocked the turbo so the output is down nice and low which looks much nicer and easier to work with: Can anyone tell me if running a silicone 90 degree off the turbo output this close to the exhaust manifold is a bad idea? Too hot = melt? Or would the silicone pipe be fine as long as it's not touching, keeping in mind the manifold is wrapped? Once everything is tightening properly I will have around 0.5-1 inch extra space so I think I can rotate the turbo some more, which should push the output further away from the manifold (to the right of screen).
  6. Can you get a copy of the tune from your tuner and load it yourself?
  7. Haha yeah I agree! I figure this will be able to do everything I need and more... spending the little extra now will be a big help in future for things like knock control, launch control (probably not necessary but pretty neat!) and having the extra CAN port as I like the idea of adding on the extra stuff down the track. For example the wideband controller and multi-gauge (which I might like to run later to see ethanol % etc) both run on CAN so can both plug into the 2000 without an extra CAN adapter. And the flex fuel sensor and boost controllers both run on a standard digital connection to the haltech so don't need a CAN port. Anyway, now I have options.
  8. Things have also taken a more serious route this week... picked up a Haltech Elite 2000 along with the "Plug and Pin" kit so I can snip the injector and ignition wires going into the stagea ECU and feed them into the Haltech, leaving the stock ECU to control the auto shifting (my ECU seems to be the early Hitachi version with only 1x ECU which controls the engine and auto in one). May not be perfect but it will do the trick for the timebeing, plus it has a tonne of extra features that will come in handy later when I can run it as a standalone.
  9. A week ago I took the stagea to All Asian Day at Lakeside here in Brisbane. It was a pretty fun time and the stag felt great on the track. It was a happy laps style of event, two lanes of cars the whole way around the track then everyone lined up for roll races down the straight. Despite having a refreshed motor, the stag is basically still in stock form, only with the boost turned up a little bit (which is kind of pointless hitting R&R anyway haha) and felt heavy and slow down the straight. Will definitely benefit there from some tuning and turning things up a bit. Corners were a very different story though! Being AWD and sitting so low on the Tein coilovers meant I could power through corners insanely fast! I kept pushing harder and harder to try and see where the limit was before chirping the tyres but ultimately it wouldn't do it, it just hugged the road even at some quite high speeds which was very damn impressive. Here's a pic pulled up after some laps to cool off -
  10. Another thing that's been making progress difficult is my battery situation. I'm having a hard time getting it to start sometimes, especially at night once I've been driving for a while with my headlights on. So far I've replaced the alternator and starter motor, it's a new battery (replaced the week I got the car) but I wonder if it's too small as it's a 340cca ... and I've never heard of the brand Mixtech before... The battery is usually sitting around 12.5-12.6v when left overnight which isn't terrible. When I first got the right tensioner bolt in it was only charging at around 13.8v so a quick adjustment tighter and I got it up to where it is now at 14.1-14.2v but I can't get it to charge any more (14.4v is the goal, isn't it?). In the process of checking all my cables I found the earth from the exhaust manifold to chassis was basically non-existant... it had burnt away at the manifold end and was dangling in the engine bay... so I've now run a new temporary earth cable there. I've also since added another decent gauge ground cable between battery -ve and the chassis for peace of mind. With that done the car has started mostly ok (maybe just coincidental), however there is still a voltage drop of 0.3-0.5v when using the headlights. Combine that and voltage drop that happens when under load (every time I accelerate hard the voltage seems to drop to 13ish and maybe 12ish sometimes) and quite often the volt gauge in the turbo timer starts flashing due to 'low battery' haha... If anyone has any ideas I'm all ears, because the next step is going to be a battery relocation to the boot and a big ass battery to go there as well! Which is a decent chunk of change I could be spending on go fast bits
  11. I haven't had much time to focus on the stagea much lately, but have tried to fix up a couple of things... For one I put the front driveshaft back in... the more I thought about it the more I thought having a RWD auto just for the gimmick was kinda silly and it wasn't any more fun overall... plus the risk of not disconnecting everything properly etc... just makes sense to keep in AWD!
  12. Wow that's good to hear. I read that you need about 3 bar base pressure for it to work with 740cc injectors which I figured was close to standard spec, but I figured an adjustable FPR would let me fine-tune it if I needed to. I guess I can leave it and only get one if I need to change the pressure. Which injectors were you running for that?
  13. So I've been looking into the whole upgrade path a little more and I've decided to do this in two big phases... I'm not the kind of person to amass $20k worth of parts over 5-10 years to fit all at once. I'm an incremental kind of person. So I'm going budget build for now with the eventual aim to manual swap, standalone ECU, e85 etc. So I picked up a cheap turbo setup. It's all ebay spec stuff but it should do the job for a while. - GT3582 spec turbo - High mount manifold, doesn't seem to have any cracks - 38mm EWG with screamer - Dump pipe to suit the high mount I'm pretty happy considering what I paid and if it lasts a little while I'll be happy enough, and if it doesn't at least I didn't waste much. I've decided to stick with the auto + AWD for now and get a piggyback ECU and just see what I can achieve that way. In the meantime I'll keep saving for the manual conversion but that's about $2200-$2800ish so a fair way off. I've also found out that 740cc injectors could be enough to get me 300-350ish kw and generally the Nismo or DW 740cc can be found for around $300 and fit the stock sidefeed rail which looks like a pretty good alternative to a $1000-$1500 top feed conversion. So really my "to-buy" list as of now consists of: - Fuel pump - 740cc injectors - FPR (?) - Piggyback ecu - Wideband sensor
  14. Following GTSBoys advice I looked more into bleeding the ATTESSA system and have now (put the fuse back in...then) disconnected the plug under the dash, tapped the brake pedal 5 times and then got the 4WD light flashing after hearing the pump whirring away. So now the system should theoretically have all the pressure bled out which means the clutch packs can't potentially be frying while driving. Hooray! For the record the plug under my dash was a plain black plug with one wire going in/out, not a green plug like in most guides. Maybe just an early/S1 stagea thing.
  15. I came across some 3 inch stainless steel 90 degree bends as offcuts for $10 each from an exhaust shop nearby... figured I could make an intake from one for a bigger intake sound, and it definitely worked. The intake swooosh is much, MUCH louder now and as I'm running no BOV (due to the forward facing plenum) that fluttering now turns almost into high-pitched pigeon dosing at 10+ psi 😥 It's so wanky but I giggle every time hahaha
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