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mosquitocoils last won the day on September 29

mosquitocoils had the most liked content!

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About mosquitocoils

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    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 09/10/1986

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    Brisbane, QLD

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    1993 R33 GTS-T
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  1. Wow that's good to hear. I read that you need about 3 bar base pressure for it to work with 740cc injectors which I figured was close to standard spec, but I figured an adjustable FPR would let me fine-tune it if I needed to. I guess I can leave it and only get one if I need to change the pressure. Which injectors were you running for that?
  2. So I've been looking into the whole upgrade path a little more and I've decided to do this in two big phases... I'm not the kind of person to amass $20k worth of parts over 5-10 years to fit all at once. I'm an incremental kind of person. So I'm going budget build for now with the eventual aim to manual swap, standalone ECU, e85 etc. So I picked up a cheap turbo setup. It's all ebay spec stuff but it should do the job for a while. - GT3582 spec turbo - High mount manifold, doesn't seem to have any cracks - 38mm EWG with screamer - Dump pipe to suit the high mount I'm pretty happy considering what I paid and if it lasts a little while I'll be happy enough, and if it doesn't at least I didn't waste much. I've decided to stick with the auto + AWD for now and get a piggyback ECU and just see what I can achieve that way. In the meantime I'll keep saving for the manual conversion but that's about $2200-$2800ish so a fair way off. I've also found out that 740cc injectors could be enough to get me 300-350ish kw and generally the Nismo or DW 740cc can be found for around $300 and fit the stock sidefeed rail which looks like a pretty good alternative to a $1000-$1500 top feed conversion. So really my "to-buy" list as of now consists of: - Fuel pump - 740cc injectors - FPR (?) - Piggyback ecu - Wideband sensor
  3. Following GTSBoys advice I looked more into bleeding the ATTESSA system and have now (put the fuse back in...then) disconnected the plug under the dash, tapped the brake pedal 5 times and then got the 4WD light flashing after hearing the pump whirring away. So now the system should theoretically have all the pressure bled out which means the clutch packs can't potentially be frying while driving. Hooray! For the record the plug under my dash was a plain black plug with one wire going in/out, not a green plug like in most guides. Maybe just an early/S1 stagea thing.
  4. I came across some 3 inch stainless steel 90 degree bends as offcuts for $10 each from an exhaust shop nearby... figured I could make an intake from one for a bigger intake sound, and it definitely worked. The intake swooosh is much, MUCH louder now and as I'm running no BOV (due to the forward facing plenum) that fluttering now turns almost into high-pitched pigeon dosing at 10+ psi 😥 It's so wanky but I giggle every time hahaha
  5. Everything I've found kind of mentions the other way being more important - people asking if only pulling the fuse is enough, or if the shaft needs to be removed as well... to which everyone says "definitely also remove the shaft". Then people argue over if the fuse is also needed or not. The wire under the dash is I believe to bleed the ATTESSA system out... but apparently just driving the car will bleed the pressure as well... according to many people on this forum. I'm always happy to be proven wrong though and if I need to also bleed the system to prevent damage I'll do it. Wouldn't be hard at all.
  6. I went out the night I made it RWD to test it out... drove for a couple of km with no problems, then suddenly she died and wouldn't start again. Without knowing exactly why, I was repeatedly cranking to try and start it... and in the process drained the battery and killed the starter motor... what an eventful night. I'm pretty sure that outer gear is supposed to have teeth... While I was waiting for my 'new' starter motor to arrive from a wreck I figured out my issue was an injector seal had worked its way loose (probably from when I first got the car and replaced a couple of dodgy injectors) and was just dumping fuel into one of the cylinders which the RB didn't like very much. Replaced that, checked there were no leaks from the injectors/rail and we were all good! Behold the import in its natural habitat -
  7. Oops, I didn't mention that in the post but yes I also pulled the fuse as per everyone's instructions.
  8. The next thing I did was 'convert' it to RWD just for shits and giggs... completely pointless but hey, it was free haha. This really just involved hopping under the car, undoing the 4 bolts holding the front driveshaft/propshaft to the front diff, then pulling the shaft out of the transmission as it's not really held in by anything. Took about half an hour. It hasn't really made a huge difference to anything... I reaaally have to push it to chirp the rear tyres and even then the auto transmission really makes it difficult to build any power on takeoff. All the more reason the manual swap...
  9. Hahaha that's actually amazing. I pretty much cbf with it either but some of those rattles were super annoying and turned out to be easy fixes... so win/win haha
  10. Thanks for the turbo advice guys. I'll come back to that in a bit. In the meantime I spent a couple of hours getting the audio setup a bit better. The first step was running power and RCA cables for a 2ch amp to power my sub (ironically this sub is out of my R33 from 8 years ago!). It was a pretty straight forward process - run the power cable from the battery, through the firewall and down under the kick panels next to the doors all the way to the boot. RCA cable always goes on the opposite side to avoid noise. I picked up this no-brand 2ch 200w amp for free from a local Subaru group and it does a great job of pushing my sub. Bass just sounds so good in the back of the Stagea, it was made for a big sound system haha. But my little amp+sub combo will do the trick for me. Once that was done I wanted to tackle some rattles. It has aftermarker speakers all around but 2 or 3 of them rattled badly on bass hits even at low volume. After taking the doors off and checking them out I realised I just needed something behind the speakers as they were largely sitting on metal, save for a small plastic bracket that didn't cover much. Some leftover Autobarn sound deadener from my forester boot install came in handy for this, I basically made a gasket for each speaker as you can see from the pic. Screwed everything back in and I can go muuuch louder before rattles start, in fact so loud it's painful - so I will be fine now haha. Loving it.
  11. Next up it was time to get the OEM front lip fitted properly. The previous owner fitted a standard size FMIC but the piping coming off it didn't leave enough room for the lip to fit. I picked up a couple of different silicone joiners which bought me some clearance room, but even then the FMIC had to be moved back about an inch, AND then the lip still needed some trimming. Unfortunate to do this to an OEM lip that actually looks really good, but now that it fits better most people would never know.
  12. Once we were up and running nicely it was time to tackle the electrical issues. Firstly there was a squeak coming from the belt area which was there (and really loud!) during the test drive. I figured it was either a belt or a pulley... luckily it turned out to just be the alternator belt. This also in turn meant the car wasn't charging properly. I verified with my multimeter and sure enough it was only getting about +1v while running (around 13.6v) I then noticed there was no tensioner on the alternator at all... so I picked up a new Gates belt and had a quick trip to a local guy parting out his RB25 to get the tensioner and we were back in business - squeaking gone and charging sitting around 14.2 - 14.4v. Then it was on to the alarm... It came with a Mongoose alarm/immobiliser installed, however it had really high parasitic drain, (I figured due to tiny battery, low amount of driving it was getting + the bad charging setup). Seeing as this is just a project car that stays hidden in the garage most of the time I just figured I would rip it out. It took a bit of fiddling but I traced every wire back to origination, cut then soldered back to stock. I'll end up putting some form of safety back in but for now at least she starts, runs and stops all under her own power which was my first goal
  13. So this is where it all started. This is the pic the previous owner sent me to tempt me. You can see it's missing the front lip altogether. That was fine, I knew I could make it fit with the FMIC piping with my handy dremel (seriously best tool out there for doing anything custom). Those with keen eyes will spot a couple of tasty mods like S2 tail lights and the NA front grille which everyone wets themselves over... though I'm not a huge fan of the slats. It had a few issues for roadworthy - one front corner light was smashed, tyres were bald etc etc... this poor dude just ran out of money and had to choose between commuting in his daily or spending money on fixing this poor girl up First things first though, it ran like a pig. It had sat unregistered and unmoved for about 2 months so I put it down to bad fuel/carbon buildup etc. I wanted to give it a full service and hope that fixed it, although in the meantime I kept smelling fuel... so I pulled the rail off, turned the key to ON and watched fuel spurting out of #6 injector! It was leaking as soon as there was any pressure to the rail, which means it was flooding #6 cylinder, causing it to run rough. A new injector OEM injector later and she idled great but was still a bit rough in gear/driving. So I went ahead with a full service - oil, filter, spark plugs, cleaned AFM with the proper stuff and pod filter with the K&N recharge kit. The oil I drained out smelt of fuel which explains things a bit. After that, she was running beautifully. You can see the damage to the paintwork on this freddy plenum from fuel leaking out of #6 so I'd say this had been happening for a while and old mate couldn't figure it out so wanted to sell it off cheap haha. At some point in the future I plan to pull the plenum off and either strip it to bare silver, or have it professionally painted/coated in the same red as the rocker covers...
  14. Interesting that it's linear in delivery... Usually 'big' turbos are nothing then BAM exponentially rising graph... What else is in your setup? How are you controlling boost? I'd really like about 10psi by 3000rpm if possible as I want it to be fun on the street. 10psi is subjective of course but I've found anything below that hard to feel. I don't know if that's possible with a 35 series turbo but maybe with a 0.83 or smaller 0.63ish rear. I could be dreaming though.
  15. What, seriously? I thought there was a difference between the GTR boxes and the GTS4 awd boxes... and therefore the Stagea awd boxes as well? Although now that I look into it again there's a bunch of forums posts from people saying "they are basically the same" and it appears they share some internal part numbers... Very cool... I guess it's settled then
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