Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

Tristan you should talk to Dan at ERD, he is pretty sick at over the phone diagnostics, just dont take too much of his time cause i want him to finish my engine :)

you help me think of a solution to my problem and ill slide up and down your disco stick :)

You always promise these things, but you never deliver.

I'm still waiting for my BJs from helping with the ESSS ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

someone just replied saying AFR should be checked out and therefore needs dyno time

he also said 1 bar is too high on stock injectors/afm

ugh GAY

@andy - does dan from erd have the SR love? if so ill give him a call on my lunch break

He has some experience with SR's, he is the RB guru but very good with SR's too

but if he suspects it is sensor or elec problems he will likely send you to EFI, which will make you cry, because they have an ocilliscope and he doesnt

someone just replied saying AFR should be checked out and therefore needs dyno time

he also said 1 bar is too high on stock injectors/afm

ugh GAY

thats probably right, with the bigger turbo running that boost I imagine you are running very close to the limits of the stock injectors, and ya the sr afm is a pos

bigger injectors, RB afm and retune and im betting the problem goes away

ocilliscope?? huh?

overlays the outputs of sensors and injector pulses in real time so you can see how all of those things are realting to each other, its awesome

overlays the outputs of sensors and injector pulses in real time so you can see how all of those things are realting to each other, its awesome

Wikipedia confirms awesomeness.

On a side note I love how google is now a verb.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...