Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

West side sau peeps wats goin on!?!? :P just wanting ideas for areas around brisbane that would be good to run in a new engine??? any ideas?? i should hopefully be getting my car back this week after its run in tune's done so on the weekend i can get started on the 1000kms haha. besides nebo.

Edited by 8znR33
West side sau peeps wats goin on!?!? :P just wanting ideas for areas around brisbane that would be good to run in a new engine??? any ideas?? i should hopefully be getting my car back this week after its run in tune's done so on the weekend i can get started on the 1000kms haha. besides nebo.

get someone to do it on the dyno, easier and probably cheaper

get someone to do it on the dyno, easier and probably cheaper

dunno if it will be cheaper on the dyno, i knw with the run in u need to put load on the engine e.g. hilly areas but i think it would cost a bit to run it in on a dyno. i dont mind the driving will be fun :) i gotta get use to my twin plate and i want to play around with my sequential shifter :P

dunno if it will be cheaper on the dyno, i knw with the run in u need to put load on the engine e.g. hilly areas but i think it would cost a bit to run it in on a dyno. i dont mind the driving will be fun :) i gotta get use to my twin plate and i want to play around with my sequential shifter :P

I admire your enthusiasm, I fkn hate running in engines. Our last engine only took a few hours to run in, you can make the dyno mimic a bigass hill by setting a large ramp rate!

sequential? must be a pretty serious 33. What are the specs on the engine?

i wouldnt say too serious i just bought the ikeya formula sequentil shifter that bolts straight to the stock gear box, but its a 25/30 but with stock head, bought the block with hypertic (dunno if thats correct spelling) pistons was going to change em but had to pay for other things so just kept em but all brand new bits with a t04z with the usual supporting mods :P

I admire your enthusiasm, I fkn hate running in engines. Our last engine only took a few hours to run in, you can make the dyno mimic a bigass hill by setting a large ramp rate!

hehe yea i havent been driving my 33 in a while kinda miss it so i dont mind doing the run in drive. yea could get the tuners to do it but i rather save the extra costs to be put to the full tune :P

im burnt and i did smell like fish (that's what she said)

i caught some fish though, so it wasnt a fail day at all

im burnt and i did smell like fish (that's what she said)

i caught some fish though, so it wasnt a fail day at all

but did you get any scrabble ?

sup mother b1tches

back at work today :yes: and they are busy installing ie8 on my PC :D

and I seem to have lost my ID card over the holidays :happy:

Damnit noooo!! minimum age to hire a GTR in the UK is 28! I'm a year out >.<

that sucks mang

sup mother b1tches

Sarrrpp yourself

back at work today :woot: and they are busy installing ie8 on my PC :D

Yeah..... that'll take a while :yes:

and I seem to have lost my ID card over the holidays :happy:
that sucks mang

You took the words right out of my mouth

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...