Jump to content
SAU Community

Inner West Crew Whoretown (toowong/st Lucia/kenmore/indooroopilly And Sometimes Sunnybank?)


Recommended Posts

did my timing belt late last yr. not too hard in the car, but radiator needs to come out. just make sure you dont mark anything and clean surfaces well before putting it back together and your laughing.......mind you it took me the better part of 2 days and a fair bit of beer :)

its not hard. just time consuming. good lucks

So not true... the timing belt needs to be done just as often on a 26 :P

Yeah but with a GTr you get to do the timing belt every few years while the engine is out getting rebuilt so it is easier :P

  • Like 3

Get the stuff with speed pseudoephedrine in it, it actually works.

Yeah I felt a bit sh*t on friday but came good on the weekend. On one hand good, on the other hand a strayen day would be nice...

I will grab some of that shit this arvo. Strayen days are good. I should probably still be off work but meh.

That's a bit of a let off, for a very leading statement from Colin

That at least deserved a "That's what she said", if not a comment regarding the troubles one can have when having to pay rent whilst being short on funds.

Twas a little disappointing.

Wait I got one:

Not as sore as your sister's is

Martin delivers. Flaming axe to the gooch coming your way good Sir.

Cool cool cool.

Yeah def should head out to bnr. No one takes a skyline there these days anyway...

Callvote John drives all us northies to the German club, and we can chip in to buy his meal :thumbsup:

Charity fundraiser to buy John some sausage?

I could probably drive us there, as long as it's not raining.

Yeah you wouldn't have this problem if you had bought a gtr, the oil pump may have failed and the engine packed it in but hey you'd have a working timing belt.

I'll try help you out in changing it, never done one before so it might be an experience.

Ssshhh my GTR still works. I don't think it knows it's a GTR.

Yeah but with a GTr you get to do the timing belt every few years while the engine is out getting rebuilt so it is easier :P

:pirate:

Ssshhh my GTR still works. I don't think it knows it's a GTR.

I must admit that My GTR since the rebuild has been the least problematic of the performance cars i have owned. The SYL80 was still more fun to fang around in though!

Whilst stealing a car from McFly, I found out the cute receptionist's name :thumbsup:

Cassie ;)

Yeah but with a GTr you get to do the timing belt every few years while the engine is out getting rebuilt so it is easier :P

An excellent point, good sir!

Twas a little disappointing.

That's what she said

Martin delivers.

That's what she said

Flaming axe to the gooch coming your way good Sir.

Looking forward to it.

Charity fundraiser to buy John some sausage?

:thumbsup:

Ssshhh my GTR still works. I don't think it knows it's a GTR.

Probably because you drive it like a skirt. It thinks it's a micra.

Poor old 20 needs a timing belt rather urgently, so i'm trying to limit ks till it's done. Anyone want to help me change it? Then I need to fine my boost/induction leak, and check if my turbo is dying or not.

That's not my car is it? Well maybe not the dying turbo bit...

I was thinking of doing mine myself very soon too (no idea how long ago the current one was done), but CBF paying extra for a workshop to do it (money is tight), If you want help/gofer/looker i'd be there so i can get an idea of what to do.

That's not my car is it? Well maybe not the dying turbo bit...

I was thinking of doing mine myself very soon too (no idea how long ago the current one was done), but CBF paying extra for a workshop to do it (money is tight), If you want help/gofer/looker i'd be there so i can get an idea of what to do.

The belt, bearings, seals, water pump, coolant and a new bolt is only about $800 supplied and fitted.

Poor old 20 needs a timing belt rather urgently, so i'm trying to limit ks till it's done. Anyone want to help me change it? Then I need to fine my boost/induction leak, and check if my turbo is dying or not.

Well since you are in thefixing mood, how about servicing my car as well :rolleyes:

It SOOO needs a good going over. Plus new tyres, cant go around aroundabout with out handfulls of opposite lock.

Our resident troll must be at school today as no replies

Edited by Kiwibob

The belt, bearings, seals, water pump, coolant and a new bolt is only about $800 supplied and fitted.

That include the oil pump seal? How much more does it cost if the oil pump itself needs to be replaced at the same time?

here is a small sample. When I see these pictures I ALMOST forget how much f**king greif it gave me.

Sexy. *APPROVED*

Herro all.

Stupid reports not working this morning.

One of my production database servers shat itself today. Good times :down:

reported to authorities,

resolution expected 2 weeks pinch.gif

Thank you for contacting IT. We aim to please.

Sexy. *APPROVED*

I liked it lots more after i got rid of the bling wheels!

The guy I sold it to wanted the bling wheels, added a billion tonnes of sound gear and de tuned it to 245rwkw because it was 'too fast' :(

The belt, bearings, seals, water pump, coolant and a new bolt is only about $800 supplied and fitted.

really?? where at? i will def send the next person i know that needs it done that direction. mine cost me 400 + in parts from Kudos in the first place. belt (gates), water pump, tensioner, pulley, cam and main seals. no oil pump seal.but if it dont leak dont touch it imo.

was quoted locally, between $1500 and $2000....lol. nooo ty. hence doing it myself. but for $800 i would have contemplated letting someone else do it.

I liked it lots more after i got rid of the bling wheels!

The guy I sold it to wanted the bling wheels, added a billion tonnes of sound gear and de tuned it to 245rwkw because it was 'too fast' :(

transfer of rwkw to hectik soundkillerwasps. thumbsup.gif

Sickness is getting worse. Im thinking about a Day off tomorrow since internet ticks over but I have a job that needs to be done tomorrow and I'm the only tech on site. Rah.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...