Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

I'm looking to import this car I've found on tradecarview, however i've tried emailing the dealer in japan several times to acquire some more information and pictures, in particular i'd like to see an auction sheet to prove its a grade 4.0 as well as the Nismo S-tune suspension, however i have not received a reply yet.

Is it normal for dealers in japan not to reply to inquiries through tradecarview? Im located in Sydney so if any importers could give me a hand as to what to do it'd be much appreciated.

I understand how dodgy tradecarview is, the car at its price seems a little too good to be true, however if i can get more details about the car it could be a good deal. I just want something different if i'm going to import from japan e.g factory aero, bayside blue, late model etc..

http://www.tradecarview.com/used_car/japan...+coupe/1551452/

post-55803-1237256044_thumb.jpg

post-55803-1237256078_thumb.jpg

post-55803-1237256112_thumb.jpg

I'm a P-plater hence the non-turbo

Cheers,

Danny

Edited by squareznboxez
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261483-wanting-to-import-a-r34-25gt-4/
Share on other sites

Typically TradeCarView is not a good place to find decent cars as most of the dealers listing cars there lie about the car and it’s condition because they know it’s all individual buyers overseas so by the time you know they have lied it will be too late to do anything. We try to counter this by checking all cars in person before buying however most sellers on TradeCarView will not allow us to check the cars which only makes us think that they are being more dishonest. It’s common for sellers here to list rubbish condition cars at low prices but make them appear to be excellent condition, or simply take photos of cars they don’t even own and list them for such a cheap price that someone would buy without asking too much – these are scams.

You have to be very careful when buying from TradeCarView and make sure you ask all the right questions, which in many cases will be just too hard for the dodgy sellers to answer and still get the sale so many will simply not reply to you.

With this specific car we have actually already looked up more information and the history for someone and found that it’s a 25GT FOUR model (2500cc non-turbo 4WD) with automatic transmission. It went through auction in mid-December 2008 which is around 3 weeks after this seller listed the car on TradeCarView, so that means they already owned it then and tried unsuccessfully to sell it at auction. The good news is that it was given grade 4 at auction which means the car should be in decent condition and is most likely worth looking at assuming you are keen on the 4WD model and that the seller is genuine!

Thanks Craig, my dad was keen to deal with someone we could meet in person with before we commited to buying. So we're trying to deal with a Sydney importer, however Powerplay said they could not go to inspect the vehicle in person as their contact in Japan was not close to the dealer, so until i can get an auction sheet i cant go any further, i've emailed the dealer several times asking for more info but without any result.

Thanks,

Danny

I completely understand you wanting to buy through an importer in Sydney so you can meet with them in person so by all means try to do that if possible, otherwise you would be far better off letting us help you from here in Melbourne and having us arrange inspection of the car rather than buying without inspection through someone in Sydney ... as long as you choose a good one then the importer in Australia will be the least of your worries, it will be the car condition that is most critical so you need to make sure that is right before you buy.

To be honest I don't expect the car and/or seller to be genuine as 95% of cars listed on TradeCarView are dodgy in some way, so if you do consider buying this car then I would strongly suggest that you only buy through someone who can arrange an independent inspection of the car. I hope it will help to see the auction report for the car in their photos but for your own sake please DO NOT buy this car based on the auction report alone, because there is a very real chance that the seller is not trying to sell this car as pictured, they could just as easily be offering a totally different R34 and just used these photos as a "sample" or tool to help them secure the sale.

02084_001.jpg

Thanks alot Craig, you've been the most helpful of all the importers, i did email you about this but i didn't receive a reply, maybe it was lost in the mail. Are you able to arrange an inspection for this vehicle in Japan at all? This would be after we pay the service fee wouldn't it, also with me being in Sydney how would compliance and registration work out?

Oh also could you please translate the auction sheet?

Thanks a heap, appreciate it

Danny

Edited by squareznboxez

auction sheet translates

interior dirty

rust under the car

seat has cigarette burn hole its worn and scratchy

B panel meaning back end panel step has wave so its small rear accident in the spare wheel well where it meets rear panel.

i agree with craig also im almost 100% sure this car will not exist due to listing dates and there web site does say its part of dealer network which at most keep cars no longer than 3- 4 weeks.

ENR34 GT4 Skylines in coupe 4WD version are rare.

  • 2 weeks later...

lol he's got better eyes than me, that's for sure. Either way, Nankang and a few other brands like Hankook are making headway on the Japanese market for the same reason they sell elsewhere - value for money.

Hey everyone, rather than starting another thread ill just ask here, is it normal for a car to get a bit scratched up around the bumpers on its way from japan to compliance?, i hear that cars arn't treated heaps well esp once they hit Aus docks.

Cheers,

Danny

Edited by squareznboxez
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...