Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I know its a silly question but i have a deep scratch on my bonnet - down to the metal and apart from a respray or doing a dodgy touch up i was thinking just to wax the area and keep it clean cos i dont want it to start rusting, what do you guys think or have any other ideas would be great

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261737-deep-scratch/
Share on other sites

man if you want a quick fix and cant afford to get it fixed just yet then clean the scratch very well and paint over it with clear nail varnish. it will act as a barrier, if you try painting over it with a paint pen it will be jsut as good but in my experience it will be more noticable.

hope this helps, im sure other people will geive you better ideas though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261737-deep-scratch/#findComment-4485561
Share on other sites

dont do it.

There is no magical cheap fix. I know, i was a automotive spraypainter

Touch up pens are rubbish. They arent mixed to the correct consistency for a start and look like shit. Stick out worse.

Go for the clear nail polish if you dont want it to rust, if you wont get it fixed soon

That, or save up and get it fixed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261737-deep-scratch/#findComment-4491257
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

i got a slight similar prob, but the front of my 33s bonnet is squashed a little bit, thanks to some top bloke in a brand new jeep cherokee rolling back while waiting at a servo, the C%$tS tow bar went into it, today i noticed abit of rust, still waiting for the dam insurance company to do soemthing but the guys doing a runner. i put some tape ont he rusty part to project it while i organise respray. if i was u id take it to a spray place to see if they could do a quick touch up, alot of those places have equiptment to do small jobs liek that, depending on how deep it is u may need to use fillar and primer it up. Goodluk.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/261737-deep-scratch/#findComment-4559540
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...