Jump to content
SAU Community

Canberra Sandblasting

INVRTD

By INVRTD,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

INVRTD Proficient

INVRTD

Posted
Posted

Howdy Guys,

A bit of an update on my progress (ive actually started fixing my car, yay), i have pulled the front bar off my car to fix it, and have found i have lots of rust on intercooler piping and other parts, i am to lasy to take it off myself so i want to sand blast the items. Does anyone know where in caberra to sandblast stuff?

Cheers,

I can't wait to get back on the road with a working car,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/266210-canberra-sandblasting/
Share on other sites
Baconer Grand Master

Baconer

Posted
Posted
theres a place just off woolongong street called A1 Sandblasting, its down a VERY bump long driveway out through a metal scrapyard, a few farmer like fellas in a BIG shed, yellow and black sign on top

i got 2 rims done for 60 bucks

I got my whole car sandblasted there, cheap, good work and fast turnaround

AA Sandblasting - 6280 5128

Its an absolute bastard to find though, its across the road from BDL stereo down a long shitty driveway

Baconer Grand Master

Baconer

Posted
Posted

Theres 2 main forms of sandblasting.

Sandblasting will remove rust but they generally will not use this on panels because the heat produced will distort the panels

Beadblasting is a less abrasive form of sandblasting and will remove paint without creating too much heat or distortion, there will be small amount that may be noticable to the panel beater who picks the car up afterwards.

With my car they sandblasted the engine bay, under panels, wheel wells and door jams then bead blasted the rest. Unless you had huge amounts of rust (eaten away sections of metal) the sandblasting shouldnt punch too much out. If it does though its probably for the best because you'll need it plated anyway.

INVRTD Proficient

INVRTD

Posted
  • Author
Posted

alex,

how mucd did the enginebay cost to get done?

I have some rust on lower intercooler piping, its surface rust, i jsut want to get rid of it and ill repaint it, there is a couple of braces that i want to get done too, but i wouldnt mind redoing the entire engine bay, depends on cost.

alex

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • GTSBoy
      R34 manual conversion speed signal wire finding, need help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • GTSBoy
      First time Skyline owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...