Jump to content
SAU Community

Do I Need A New Fuel Pump?

shaunvlc

By shaunvlc,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

shaunvlc Enthusiast

shaunvlc

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, had my car on a dyno the other week for a power run, they put a sensor in the exhaust etc etc, I dont know much about dyno's.

On the print out the AFR;s reached just above 15 on full boost. I have been told that this is a sign of a dieing fuel pump. however im wondering, is the fuel pump internal or external as i would rather replace it with something better then the factory pump.

Will a bosch fuel pump work? something along the lines of a 040. If so what is the part number?

Do i need to alter any of the existing fuel lines, fuel pressure etc?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

The car is a S1 R33 gtst.

Made 240 hp atw running not tip top.

At a certain point the power curve went horizantal and then back up again. As this happened a big black cloud of un burnt fuel came out. then it shows that its running lean at 15 (afr's)

Help guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/267538-do-i-need-a-new-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites
SXC-R34 Collaborator

SXC-R34

Posted
Posted
Hey guys, had my car on a dyno the other week for a power run, they put a sensor in the exhaust etc etc, I dont know much about dyno's.

On the print out the AFR;s reached just above 15 on full boost. I have been told that this is a sign of a dieing fuel pump. however im wondering, is the fuel pump internal or external as i would rather replace it with something better then the factory pump.

Will a bosch fuel pump work? something along the lines of a 040. If so what is the part number?

Do i need to alter any of the existing fuel lines, fuel pressure etc?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

The car is a S1 R33 gtst.

Made 240 hp atw running not tip top.

At a certain point the power curve went horizantal and then back up again. As this happened a big black cloud of un burnt fuel came out. then it shows that its running lean at 15 (afr's)

Help guys!

I'm not a pro myself in dyno read outs, but you can get fuel pumps that r just a direct swap to your stock 1, nismo is the best out there, n alot of people use bosch as well. Replacing your stock to like a nismo fuel pump for example is enough up to about 350 KW so u looking at about 470 HP

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

I would test the fuel pressure first.

Could be blocked fuel filter, crook fuel reg, dirty injectors, pump is the last thing really.

If you do go down the track of a new pump the 040 is the most direct fitting pump for your car, without spending megabucks on a Nismo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...