Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. I am wondering what you guys got done at your 100k service or also recommend. Just checking if I miss anything. Cause the workshop said I need to make them a list. And how much did it cost you. I need a rough idea.

Cheers

Berny

You don't need to mention workshop names, I don't want a "which workshop is better thread"

I couldn't find the info with search

It's probably going to cost you around $1k - $1.2k for the service.

This is what I try to do...

Every 5,000 - 7,000kms

- Engine Oil

- Oil Filter

- Copper Spark Plugs

Every 30,000kms

- Air Filter

- Gearbox Oil

- Diff Oil

- Fuel Filter

Every 80,000kms

- Water Pump

- Radiator Flush

- Brakes

- Timing Belt

- Fan Belt

Might have missed some stuff!

Get em to check your battery, tires, drivetrain etc.

Most workshops should have a ## point checklist, and they go over the list and check pretty much everything on the car.

Edited by SKY RYAN

-timing belt

-water pump

-oil

-oil filter

-fuel filter

-air filter

-flush radiator and new coolant

-thermostat

-brake pads

-power steering belt

-aircon belt

-alternator belt

Well, that's what im doing this weekend, burns away the majority of it.

Why change the brakes pads if they don't need doing? This is what i would get done:

1. Timing Belt

2. Water Pump

3. Tensioner (optional, really depends if it needs to be done but i would do it anyway!)

4. Oil Seals (cam & crank)

5. Coolant flush (get them to check radiator hoses, replace if necessary - thermostat)

6. Drive Belts

7. Drive line oils (gearbox & diff)

8. Oil & filter

9. Fuel filter

10. Air filter if you have stock filter

11. Spark Plugs

12. Any other general fluids if need to be done (power steering, brake fluid, clutch fluid.. etc)

13. General service - inspect brakes/suspension etc....

For a service like this you looking at roughly $1300+

If the brakes do need doing, get them to machine the rotors, don't just do a pad slap, for an extra $30 odd bucks money well spent!

Im doing the pads mainly because I feel like it.

-timing belt kit ~80

-water pump ~100? (cant remember)

-oil - ~40

-oil filter ~10

-fuel filter ~15?

-air filter ~20?

-flush radiator and new coolant ~not alot

-thermostat ~cant remember

-brake pads ~150 or so

-power steering belt =11

-aircon belt =11

-alternator belt =11

~400 or so.

So if you arent doing it, slap labour on top.

I remember the belt prices exactly.

Cool thanks boys. Turns out my timing belt was changed 40k ago. But the engine and body have each done ~100k now.

post-a220529-cam-cover2.JPG

But I want to do the oils and fluids properly.

Motul 300V Chrono for engine, Redline Lightweight Shockproof for gearbox, Motul 90PA for diff.

Full liquids flush. All filters, compression test, iridium plugs, carbon clean plenum, all drive belts.

Check for leaks, and rubber boots, sub frame and suspension checked and tightened, radiator pressure test.

Hoping this will cost under 1K, due to not having to do timing belt etc.

If you're going to replace fanbelts etc then you may as well replace the tensioner bearing also.

If you're going to replace the timing belt then you may as well replace the water pump as it's cheaper in the long run with the labour costs and it's a part that if it fails, it can cause a lot of damage.

Check thermostat housing for corrosion and if there is corrosion on it then also check under the intake manifold for all the various cooling and heater hose aluminium connections/nipples (hmmmmm nipples :P ). If there's corrosion on some aluminium parts then there's a good chance that there will be others corroding away. Try and use original nissan coolant as it's not as corrosive as other coolants.

Reverse flush the whole cooling system: cleans out the heater core. Pressure test also.

Engine flush: Cleans out oil deposits and other gunk.

Brake fluid flush and replace: brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water. Not good for brake systems. This is important especially if you live near water or in high humidity areas. You can also get your fluid tested at regular service intervals. Check brake lines and vaccuum hoses to brake booster. Actually check all vacuum lines and intake hoses from turbo to intake manifold.

Same goes for clutch fluid, and power steering. Check hoses for cracking and brittleness. Replace as necessary or if you want to be safe, replace them all anyway. Go on eBay and buy a whole silicon hose kit and put pretty blue or red hoses throughout the engine bay ;)

Change oxgen sensor, water temp sensor and oil pressure sensor if you want to be really really sure, just like the irishman who puts on two condoms, to be shure, to be shure! ;)

Check fuel lines, change fuel filter, check fuel pressure regulator (replace if you think like an irish gigolo).

Check battery acid level and age. There are testers for this. Decent workshops should have a multitude of testers some may even have a scan tool to plug into the ECU to test for any fault codes. Put it on your list of things for them to do. Check other electrical bits for fraying, wearing, discolouration of covers/wires etc etc.

Change oil in transmission, and diff. Flush it if you can. Check/change universal bearings, pivot bearings, wheel bearings. Check suspension and steering bearings, bushings, pivots, arms etc etc etc. Basically anything that moves, make sure it moves correctly, anything that isn't supposed to move, check to make sure it doesn't move.

If you're talking a _MAJOR_ service then thats what I'd be doing at least. Getting a workshop to do it may put the cost up over the $1K mark ( especially with replacing most things) but if you make a list and check a lot of the easier bits yourself then it's a lot cheaper. It's not as hard if you just go through it logically and use common sense. If you check things yourself, make a list and tell the workshop what you did and what you found. They won't take responsibility for anything that goes wrong if they didn't check it themselves.

There's plenty of sites and tutorials around online. They'll save you money and you'll feel good about doing it yourself. (maybe, this isn't guarenteed and some people just shouldn't touch mechanical things. If you are one of these people, work hard for money and pay someone who likes to touch mechanical things).

Hope that helps,

Hermit_

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...